40 March 7 • 2019 jn First Read Edited Submit to Farago Final Submit for PDF: Editor Time Editor Time Round Farago 1 2 3 Notes Farago: Notes RenMedia: F oodies, hipsters and others are drawn to the creativity on display at Flowers of Vietnam restaurant in south- west Detroit. The area is best known for its notable Mexican eateries, but Flowers chef George Azar, 30, is nei- ther Vietnamese nor Mexican. He’ s a Palestinian-American born in the same Mexicantown neighborhood as his restaurant, about two miles from the Ambassador Bridge. Azar’ s longtime mentor and the restaurant co-owner is Paul Saginaw, the Jewish co-founder of Zingerman’ s Deli and other Ann Arbor-based businesses. “I always ate Vietnamese food and didn’ t want to keep driving to Madison Heights to get it,” explained Azar, referring to the notable Asian restaurants based in this Oakland County suburb. A culinary arts graduate of Schoolcraft College in Livonia, Azar cooked at prominent restaurants that included Alinea in Chicago. Back in Detroit, he decided to start Flowers of Vietnam after people flocked to the weekend pop-up dinners he host- ed in his father’ s “intimate” Vernor Coney Island. After opening there to great acclaim in 2017, including being named to several “Best” restau- rant lists, Flowers closed for reno- vation during most of the following year. An estimated $750,000 improved the kitchen and brought the entire 100-year-old building up to code. Since reopening on Jan. 10, 2018, Flowers is back to its honor-winning ways, most recently described as “Best Pop-Up Turned Full-Service Restaurant” in Hour Detroit’ s March 2019 issue. Flowers now takes up three store- fronts. Guests enter through the orig- inal luncheonette space, where they can eat at the counter or proceed to the unpretentious adjoining dining room. A bar area is on the farthest side. Azar researched extensively, including travels to Vietnam, to develop his recipes, but takes pride that his place is not a “mom-and- pop-type restaurant. We are progres- sive for Vietnamese food. I do what I feel is appropriate for me.” Azar said his favorite menu items are also customer favorites, including caramel chicken wings, “broken” rice with Chinese sausage, “shaky beef” — prime 30-day dry-aged rib- eye cap, fried tofu, papaya salad and Vietnamese-style fried whole fish. Dining recently with my friend Diane, we were smitten with our shared wings appetizer. Red Boat-brand fish sauce is mixed with palm sugar and cara- melized for the thick, crunchy batter. The taste is sweet, with a pleasant kick. Herb aioli, light green and fragrant from Thai basil, accompanies the wings. The whole fish we were brought to eat with eyes and tail intact was somewhat daunting, but Diane and I were up to the challenge. After removing the vertebrae, our mighty forks scooped up white fish flesh, banana blossoms, black “Chinese forbidden rice,” spicy-sweet tomato sauce and cilantro. The flavors were complex and satisfying. “The fish has been on our menu since Day One,” Azar said “We serve bream, a species that’ s not overly fished.” Supplies might come from Australia or Oregon. Flowers is open only 5-11 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday, but weekend brunch is coming. ■ Esther Allweiss Ingber Contributing Writer First Read Edited Submit to Farago Final Submit for PDF: Editor Time Editor Time Round Farago 1 2 3 Notes Farago: Notes RenMedia: First Read Edited Submit to Farago Final Submit for PDF: Editor Time Editor Time Round Farago 1 2 3 Notes Farago: Notes RenMedia: PHOTO CREDIT: ESTHER INGBER FLOWERS OF VIETNAM 4430 Vernor Highway Detroit, MI 48209 Phone: (313) 554-2084 www.flowersofvietnam.com $$$ out of $$$$ Fried bream Fried bream Flowers of Vietnam dining around the d nosh FINE CHINESE DINING “A wonderful adventure in fine dining” ~ Danny Raskin Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner Catering and carryout available Gift certificates 27925 Orchard Lake Rd., North of 12 Mile, Farmington Hills 248-489-2280 www.honghuafinedining.com Our philosophy is simple... Mangia Bene” (Eat well). JOIN OUR MAILING LIST I NEVER MISS AN UPDATE Hours: Monday - Thursday 11am - 10pm I Friday 11am - 11pm Saturday 12pm - 11pm I Sunday 12pm - 9pm Please Inquire About Banquets and Private Parties. CIAO Italian Bistro & Wine Bar 6199 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield, MI 48324 T / 248-862-6374 F / 248-862-6389 www.ciaoitalianbistro.com 20% OFF Food only. Not valid with any other offer. Max discount $20. Expires 3-31-19 040RDB.030719_NOSH Dining Around D .indd 40 040RDB.030719_NOSH Dining Around D .indd 40 3/5/19 7:59 AM 3/5/19 7:59 AM