30 January 3 • 2019
jn

Redcoat Tavern

I

t felt like entering a time warp, dining
again at Redcoat Tavern in Royal
Oak. After my more than 40 years
away, the early American-style decor was
just as I remembered. Shiny red booths
line the front room with only tiny red
lanterns for illumination. A high shelf
against a rough-plaster wall still displays
tin, copper and pewter serving pieces.
The capacity here is 125.
Redcoat Tavern’
s décor reflects the
Scottish-British heritage of Wilma
Brown and her late husband, John. They
opened today’
s “
ale house, wine bar and
gastropub” in 1972. Juan Garcia has been
corporate general manager for 15 years.
A restaurant needs to offer something
special to stick around so long. Here,
that something is the Original Redcoat
Special hamburger. The half-pound of
freshly ground “
proprietary blend” beef
comes with tomato, shredded lettuce and
“
special sauce” on a toasted bun. But wait
— there’
s more! Diners may customize
their burgers from a list of 33 “
mod-
ifications,
” including cheeses, onions,
peppers, sauces, breads and more. Bacon
is the No. 1 add-on, according to Garcia.
Despite an upcharge, 40 percent choose

Redcoat’
s ground certified Piedmontese
beef. Described as a healthier alternative
to the traditional burger, Piedmontese
contains less than 2 grams of fat.
Ollie Williams is executive sous chef
at Redcoat Tavern in Royal Oak, with
Bryan Young his counterpart at the
West Bloomfield location. In 2009, the
Browns’
contemporary Zinc restaurant,
opened five years earlier, adopted their
original concept. Despite what some
customers say, the restaurants offer the
same food.
“We get that all the time,
” Garcia said.
“But our consistency is everything. We
have the same menus, same techniques
and same staff training, though our
restaurants look different.
”
Everything is house-made at Redcoat,
including the raspberry-port vinaigrette
accompanying my friend Irva’
s Tavern
Salad. The salad’
s hand-peeled pears
were purple from being poached in port
wine. Also special in this assemblage
of Amish chicken breast, baby greens
and sundried cherries was house-made
Stilton-hazelnut terrine. Delicious!
I took our server’
s suggestion and
ordered Amish Chicken Pot Pie, topped

with French puff pastry. I liked the flaky
golden crust over veggies and filling.
Also popular are the daily featured
entrees and Shepherd’
s Pie. We started
with Clam Chowder for me — still great
— and Irva’
s tomato-based Caribbean
Seafood Chowder.
Blackened Tenderloin Tips is a favorite
appetizer. Skillet-blackened in Cajun
spices, the tips are flamed in bourbon
and finished in Cajun cream sauce.
“
Anything with corned beef sells well,
”
said Garcia of their sandwiches.
For dessert, Wilma Brown bakes a
notable Key Lime Pie. Pot du Crème is
a chocolate “
super-pudding” holdover
from Zinc. Redcoat also offers a com-
prehensive selection of beer, wine and
liquor. ■

ESTHER ALLWEISS INGBER CONTRIBUTING WRITER

dining in the d
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Est. 1986

REDCOAT TAVERN
31542 Woodward, Royal Oak
Phone: (248) 549-0300

6745 Orchard Lake Road,
West Bloomfield
Phone: (248) 865-0500
Redcoat Tavern is on
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