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October 04, 2018 - Image 58

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2018-10-04

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

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dining around the d

Ellen’s Bakery & Café

ESTHER ALLWEISS INGBER CONTRIBUTING WRITER

E

Open since Dec. 1, the lovely, flowing
addition can accommodate up to 72
guests. A light green fabric covers chairs
and barstools. Drop-down Edison light
bulbs provide illumination. Above the
chef ’s counter are several rows of small
earth-toned glass tiles.
“The bakery is outstanding, as are the
breakfasts,” said Bonni Gutov, an Ellen’s
fan from Waterford. She enjoys George
Kalergis’ “creative dinner menu because
everything served here is very fresh.”
Ellen’s is a “scratch house,” Hanson
said, where everything — from bread
to dressings to ice cream — is made
on premises. Adult ice cream flavors
include Mudslide, combining chocolate
with Amaretto and Kahlua.
“We source local produce as much as
possible,” said Chef George, mentioning
the Long Family Farm as one supplier.
Looking past a comprehensive
breakfast menu that includes Truffle-
Lemon Home-fried Potatoes, Brioche

llen’s Bakery & Café is no longer
just a place for locals to pop in
for morning coffee and home-
made muffins and bagels, or perhaps
have their breakfast or lunch. After
19 years in business, the hardworking
proprietors/chefs George and Ellen
Kalergis decided to expand their popu-
lar Sylvan Lake eatery and begin offer-
ing dinner and bar service, too.
Executive Chef George from
Dearborn Heights and pastry chef Ellen
from Virginia met while studying at
Culinary Institute of America, the pres-
tigious cooking school in Hyde Park,
N.Y. Both had considerable professional
experience before opening Ellen’s in
1999. Ray Hanson is the general man-
ager/sommelier.
Northville-based Martone Design
Studio drew up plans for Ellen’s new
deco-influenced dining room and
bar. The builder was K4 Construction
Group of Lathrup Village.

French Toast and loads of omelets and
scramblers — my concentration was on
items served at lunch and dinner. The
French-influenced cuisine is apparent
in certain sauces and George’s classical
cooking style.
Sharing plates with a small group,
our starters were excellent: green
onion-garnished lobster bisque and a
roasted tomato “soup of the day.” The
Lamb Baby Back Ribs were exceptional
with their Cabernet-black currant glaze.
I loved the taste and pretty rainbow
colors of petite Roasted Heirloom
Carrots, served with goat cheese
and a balsamic vinegar drizzle. Wild
Mushroom Fettucine made my mouth
happy and its sauce didn’t overwhelm.
I didn’t expect to like the Sweet Potato
Black Bean Quinoa Burger, a former
special promoted to the regular menu,
but the healthy burger is delicious, not
bland.
Popular non-meat choices include

juicy Roasted Cauliflower Steak, a
vegan dish, seasoned perch served
with veggies and broiled Lake Superior
whitefish. It has artichoke, lemon,
capers and garlic butter in a Beurre
Blanc sauce.
I’d be remiss not mentioning Chef
George’s flavorful Roast Lamb Shank,
including red wine demi-glace sauce,
oregano, feta, scallions and onion-
mashed potatoes.
At the bar, Ellen’s offers classic drinks
with specials, 25 bottled wines and 16
by the glass. The restaurant and bakery,
noted for its Flourless Chocolate Cake,
also does extensive catering. ■

ELLEN’S BAKERY AND CAFE
2495 Orchard Lake Road
Sylvan Lake, MI 48320
(248) 681-5700
ellensbakeryandcafe.com
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58

October 4 • 2018

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