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Kruse & Muer

I

was pumped when Kruse & Muer on Woodward opened
dining
last year in Royal Oak. Anyone familiar with Detroit dining
around
history knows the Kruse and Muer name and its deserved
the d reputation for serving wonderful seafood.

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48

February 8 • 2018

jn

Bill Kruse, hired in 1972 by the late Charles Muer, runs the
restaurant group’s seven properties with sons Casey and Alex.
Other restaurants include Kruse & Muer Roadhouse — in Lake
Orion since 1935 — and Rochester-based Kruse & Muer on
Main downtown and Rochester Chop House.
This new restaurant on Woodward just north of Catalpa
(11½ Mile) most recently was home to the Vinsetta Grill, whose
owners retired. DeLuca’s came before.
Kruse & Muer on Woodward brings additional wow to the
Esther Allweiss
restaurant scene in southeast Oakland County. The dark build-
Ingber
ing, brightened with a cream-colored façade of two fish making
Contributing Writer
a circle, is credited to the restaurant group’s longtime collabora-
tor Ron & Roman, a noted Birmingham-based architecture and
restaurant design firm.
The clever touches of designer Ron Rea continue inside the
handsome main dining room, backroom and bar area. Black-
and-white photographs of fish co-exist with drawings of fish
against blue backgrounds.
Tiny hexagonal tiles cover floors, the spot-lit bar and many
walls. Black is the primary color, but the space isn’t drab
because of strategic lighting sources, including from windows
and striking glass-and-candle chandeliers. Rough wood ceiling
slats add a rustic feeling to the otherwise contemporary décor.
I’ve visited Kruse & Muer on Woodward several times; it’s my
new area favorite. Kitchen manager John Holzabough leads his
staff in preparing menus developed in the corporate office.
Soup is a strong suit, and two year-round staples are
Charley’s Chowder, a tomato-based fish chowder, and satisfy-
ing French onion soup. In the fall, I enjoyed the seasonal Forest
Mushroom Bisque. I’ve delighted in New England Seafood
Chowder twice this winter. The soup crock is loaded with pota-
toes, Gulf shrimp, clams, bacon and sherry cream.
I highly recommend Salmon Apricot among the salads, and
the accommodating staff will split it. (The servers are great
here, by the way.) My grilled salmon portion was topped with
dried apricots and cherries, Chevre cheese and sugared wal-
nuts. The accompanying apricot-ginger dress-
ing is perfect. Classic Caesar and Martha’s
Vineyard are salads offered in two sizes.
Kruse & Muer diners tend to prefer anything
seafood-oriented, including freshly shucked
or Crispy Asian oysters, flash-fried calamari
and Lobster & Shrimp Fettuccine. Seafood and
fish entrees include Jimmy’s Lake Perch and
Blackened Mahi, but look for poultry, beef and
pork choices, and six kinds of pizza. Gluten-
free preparations are upon request.
I liked the Tuna Tostadas, reminiscent
of sashimi with avocado-mango slaw and
Kruse & Muer Asian glaze. They came with a tangy mound
on Woodward of thickened rice.
Drink and appetizer discounts are fea-
28028 Woodward
tures
of “Happy Hour,” 3-5:30 p.m. weekdays
Royal Oak, MI
and
2-6
p.m. Saturday. A children’s menu for
(248) 965-2101
under age 12 offers $6 entrees. Desserts are
kruseandmuerrestaurants.com
super-good, too. •
$$$ out of $$$$$