jews d in the travel continued from page 107 The Inquisition records also show details of several tri- als and executions of Cuban Judaizers, such as the 1613 burning of a rich landowner Francisco Gomez de Leon. The Holy Office in the Spanish colonies was abolished only in the early years of the 19th cen- tury, and until the end of the Spanish-American War of 1898, only Catholic religious services were allowed. What the Cuban settlers of Jewish descent wanted was to blend with the Spaniards and “disappear” into Cuba. And they did. CASTRO’S ANCESTRY TOP LEFT: Sugarcane press on the historic 18th-century sugarcane plantation near Trinidad in the Valle de los Ingenious. Hernando de Castro, possibly a converso, built the first sugar mill near Santiago in the early 1500s, and is considered to be the pioneer of the sugar industry on the island. TOP RIGHT: Spanish cannons at the El Morro fort in Havana. BOTTOM: The synagogue of Santiago. Founded by the Sephardim in 1924, it was closed sometime after the revolution, and reopened again in 1996 to service its community of 90 or so members. But in March 2017, the doors were locked again. The last family, we were told, left for Israel. 108 September 14 • 2017 jn Fidel Castro himself admitted on a few occasions that his own ancestors were of Jewish descent. Patrick Symmes in his remarkable study of Cuba, The Boys from Dolores (2008), quoted Castro’s classmates, who remembered young Fidel stating that though many young people in the 1930s were fascinated with Hitler, Franco or Mussolini, he could never do so because those leaders were anti-Semitic. And, as Fidel explained, he could not be “against the Jews” since he, Fidel, was one himself: He descended through his grandmothers from the Jews of Spanish Galicia and the Canary Islands. 20TH-CENTURY JEWISH STORY Our first stop in Cuba was Santiago, the city that brings history pilgrims to the very roots of Cuban and Jewish his- tory. Columbus landed in 1492 about 200 km to the east of what is today Santiago, which became one of the first Spanish settlements on the island. In July 1898, Theodore Roosevelt’s cavalry attacked the San Juan Hill and captured the city, ending Spanish domination in Cuba and bringing final vic- tory in both Spanish-American War and the Cuban War for Independence. The American Jews began arriving shortly after. They were the first “real” Jews to settle on the island as part of the much larger and fast-growing American expat community. Attracted by the opportunities of investment and the promise of wealth, they saw themselves as first and foremost Americans and sought to replicate their American environment in Cuba. In 1904, they founded the first synagogue in Havana, a reformed Union Hebrew Congregation and, in 1906, they acquired a plot for a Jewish cemetery. These two events are often considered the official beginning of the Cuban Jewish community, an English-speaking Cuban- American Jewish community to be precise. An American island within the island of Cuba came into being. And American Jews created their own comfortable corner within it. Sephardic Jews arrived next, mostly refugees from Turkey. Speaking Ladino, they did not have the same language or cul- tural barriers as did the other Jewish immigrant groups, and so had an easier time acclimat- ing to their new home. The largest group settled in Havana. In 1914, the Sephardi estab- lished their own communal organization Chevet Ahim to provide Orthodox religious ser- vices to the entire Sephardim of Cuba. They built their own secure corner within the “Jewish island” of Cuba, firmly rooted in strict traditions and religion. Escaping the escalation of rabid anti-Semitism and violent pogroms in Russia and Poland, Ashkenazi Jews began to arrive in Cuba in the beginning of the 20th century through the late 1920s. The locals called them “Polacos” (Poles) even though many were not from Poland. Unlike Sephardim, the Ashkenazim saw their time on the island as only a brief stop- over before entering the United States. They called Cuba the Akhsanie Kuba or “Hotel Cuba” in Yiddish. In 1924, when U.S. immigration laws stiffened, the Cuban loophole was closed. The Jewish Cuban “hotel” had to become a home. With the economic decline of the late 1920s came a national- ist revival focused on return- ing to the Cubans their rights over their own country. Anti- Semitism came naturally along. Instigated by the Cuban nation- alists in cooperation with the Nazi German Embassy in Havana, hostility toward Jewish immigrants from Europe fueled both anti-Semitism and xeno- phobia. These attitudes played a sig- nificant role in the infamous tragic case of the transatlantic liner St. Louis, when this ship with its 937 passengers on board, most refugees from the Third Reich, was not allowed to disembark in Havana and forced to return to Europe. The fifth and last wave of Jewish immigrants in Cuba brought European refugees and survivors of the camps prior to, during and after World War II. In spite of the anti-Semitic attitudes and tightening of the immigration laws in Cuba, more