jews d in the travel The Island PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX SHALAND Within An Island: In Search Of A Cuban Jewish Story To be Cuban and to be Jewish is to be twice survivors. IRENE SHALAND SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS ABOVE: The oldest structure in Cuba — Diego Velazquez House in Santiago, 1516. If Luis de Torres was indeed a rich landowner in the new colony, he could in all probability build a similar house like this one that used to belong to the first governor of Cuba. TOP RIGHT: Slave towers like this one were built by rich plantation owners to seek runaway slaves. M y visit to Cuba in March of 2017 led to a remarkable personal discovery that went against everything I read before the trip. Today, the Jews of Cuba, once called a remnant of the 15,000-strong community, demonstrate a phenomenon of rebirth and reinvention. The tiny community of 1,000 on the island of 11 million peo- ple is robust, has a strong sense of identity and is very different from the Jewish community before the 1959 revolution. The contemporary Cuban Jewish narrative depicts a fascinating trajectory. First, a descent from vibrancy and prosperity to near oblivion after the mass exodus of the 1960s and years of imposed atheism. Then, a recent sudden ascent to becoming a “Celebrity of Tropical Diaspora,” arguably the most visited and photo- graphed of the world’s Jewish communities. The Cuban Jewish story reflects not a single community but rather a mosaic of several, varied greatly in languages and cultures and built by five distinct waves of Crypto-Jewish and Jewish immigrants. CONVERSOS ARRIVE Cuba has been a welcom- ing refuge for the Jews since 1492, when conversos sought a safe haven from the Spanish Inquisition. There is no docu- mented evidence proving the arrival of the first Crypto-Jews to Cuba. However, supposedly, the first European settler in Cuba was a converso Luis de Torres, born Yosef ben Levy Ha-Ivri. An explorer and translator, he sailed with Columbus on the Santa Maria and is credited with being the first person of Jewish descent settling on the island. Moreover, de Torres is often proclaimed the first Jew to set foot in the Americas! The Luis de Torres Synagogue in Freeport, Bahamas, was named after him. Many conversos settled in Cuba following de Torres, but little is known about them and their Jewish ancestry. The West Indies’ Inquisition records contain lists of sus- pected Judaizers. One of those maranos, Hernando de Castro, built the first sugar mill near Santiago and is considered the pioneer of the sugar industry on the island. continued on page 108 jn September 14 • 2017 107