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Ottava
Via
Dining
Around
The D
Esther Allweiss
Ingber
I
n the heart of Corktown Historic District,
Detroit’s oldest surviving neighborhood,
is Ottava Via, a welcoming place to enjoy
Neapolitan-style thin pizza and other made-
from-scratch specialties.
Dave Steinke and partner Tim Springstead
of Nemo’s Bar & Grill have enjoyed a bona
fide hit with Ottava Via since opening in July
2013. Both businesses on Michigan Avenue at
Eighth Street aren’t far from the former fabled
Tiger Stadium on Michigan at Trumbull.
My friend Andrea raved about Ottava Via so
often that we finally met for lunch there with
our friend, Diane. Tuscan Braised Short Rib
was Diane’s choice, an entree she’d enjoyed
earlier. The ribs topped with onion frites “rest”
on a bed of creamy, mascarpone polenta.
Andrea and I split three dishes — I loved
them all. The Melted Pecorino Cheese Plate is
a small cast-iron pan of fragrant, warm cheese
Ottava Via
1400 Michigan Ave.
Detroit, MI 48216
(313) 962-5500
www.ottavavia.com
$$½ out of $$$$$
50
April 13 • 2017
jn
that’s accompanied by crusty house-made
Italian bread, very thin pear slices and spiced
truffle honey. Oh, baby!
I’m always up for roasted beet salads. The
Ottava Via version also offers candied wal-
nuts, feta and goat cheese “whip,” Granny
Smith apples and arugula frisee. The flavors
mix beautifully. Our Margherita pizza featured
house-made mozzarella, tomato sauce and a
fresh sweet basil leaf on every slice.
Executive Chef Ariel Millan’s menu includes
“some seasonal items, but we do keep favorite
items the same,” said Stephanie Fronrath, a
restaurant manager. Besides short ribs, two
other standouts are Truffle Butter Pasta and
“phenomenal” Branzino.
The latter dish is pan-seared, whole
Mediterranean seabass topped with olive
oil capers and Calabrian chilies, alongside
Tuscan-style potatoes.
I returned to Ottava Via with my husband
and three other couples on a Saturday night
last month. Despite best efforts, I could not
secure the round table for eight I had desired.
The noise level bothered us in this uncarpeted
restaurant-bar with high ceilings.
We were a tough crowd. Mike and Steve
didn’t care for their Farmhouse Chicken.
Peggy and Alan weren’t impressed with
Ragout Alla Bolognese. Debbie mostly liked
her Salsiccia pizza, in spite of the peppers.
Peter complained about the egg on his
Rucolina pizza.
Only Donna and I were happy. She had
the Melted Pecorino Cheese Plate. We both
liked Veal Popette, veal meatballs in a mush-
room Marsala sauce. My garlic shrimp and
a chopped salad that included finocchiona
salami and aged Provolone cheese were both
very good. The Tuscany bean soup with fresh
spinach also satisfied.
Steinke designed the charming decor in
this former Dime Bank. There is a brick wall
and others faux-painted. Local artist Jerome
Feretti created a “Diego and Frida” mural for
the separate dining room. Multiple violins on
display are a tribute to Steinke’s composer
daughter.
Ottava Via boasts a free parking lot. When
the weather improves, guests on the patio can
play bocce ball. •