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calling within that region’s bustling
beer culture. He sensed his Jewish
identity had a part to play. Many
beers conjure up a homeland or con-
stitute a point of pride for drinkers
— Heineken, for instance, is as
Dutch as windmills or wooden
clogs. Cowan wanted to forge
a place for Jews in the realm of
great beers and to dispel what
he saw as a myth that Jews don’t
enjoy beer.
“When I started, there was
no Jewish celebration beer,”
he said. “Every group had
some beers they could call
their own. I wanted to cre-
ate something that would
combine a sense of history,
referencing pop culture, lit-
erature, traditions and holi-
days and, of course, a beer
that can stand with the most
innovative, creative delicious
beers in the world.
“Then putting a bunch of
shtick on the beer labels,”
Cowan adds. “I thought
people would feel a meaning-
ful connection.”
The craft beer industry is cut-
throat, particularly because it
comprises so many small busi-
nesses clawing to stand out.
According to Cowan, the field
has seen more growth in the
past three years than at any
point in history, ballooning
to more than 5,000 craft
brewers operating in the
country.
“This is the single great-
est time in history to enjoy
great beer and to make
craft beer,” he said.
The Jewish branding of
Shmaltz is unique, Cowan
said. Iconic kosher wine
companies such as Kedem
and Manischewitz — the
names most Jews attune to
when playing word asso-
ciation with “Jewish” and
“alcohol” — are owned by big-
ger companies. Cowan hopes drink-
ers of his beer relish Shmaltz’s ascen-
dancy in the highly competitive beer
marketplace as a Jewish independent
business going on 20 years.
“I hope the Jewish community
feels proud,” he said. “We do feel
the support at events and on social
media. It’s very difficult to maintain
a for-profit consumer Jewish busi-
ness, and I’m very proud that we’ve
accomplished that and hope we can
for many years to come.” •

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Adult only-Dine-in only

Not valid holidays, or with any
other offers. Must present
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Maximum discount $50.
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Expires 3.15.17

BEFORE
THE
(next to Star Theater)
MOVIE
248-208-0088

25333 West. 12 Mile Rd.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

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The

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SPOSITA’S

RISTORANTE

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$ 22.95

Includes Petite Filet, antipasto plate, side of pasta,
salad, soup, potato and vegetable.
Dine-in only, not valid with any other offer.

15% Off

food bill

Offer Good Monday-Thursday, dine-in only and entrees only. Not
valid with any other offer. With coupon only. Not valid on holidays.

(248) 538-8954

33210 W. 14 Mile Rd
In Simsbury Plaza, just east of Farmington Rd.
West Bloomfield

Mon-Thurs: 4pm-10pmtFri: 11am-11pm
Sat: 4pm-11pmtSun: 4pm-9pm

2154970

The space frequently hosts events
such as weddings, bar and bat mitz-
vahs, even brit milah ceremonies.
Shmaltz sells its beer across 35
states in nearly 5,000 retailers,
including Holiday Market in
Royal Oak, Market Square in
West Bloomfield and Cork & Rye
in Farmington Hills. In 2016,
Shmaltz did $4 million in gross
sales — a far cry from the back
of the Volvo.
“It’s really astounding,”
Cowan said of Shmaltz’s rise
to Jewish beer prominence.
Shmaltz recently com-
bined two of Cowan’s eter-
nal loves — pastrami and
beer — to create “Pastrami
Pils,” a 5.5 percent ABV pil-
sner brewed with caraway,
cracked black pepper and
kosher salt, and dry hopped
with horseradish and rye
blend.
Also a lifelong Star Trek
fan, Cowan secured an
exclusive agreement to
create the only officially
licensed Star Trek beers in the
country: “Golden Anniversary
Ale: Voyage to the Northeast
Quadrant” and “Golden
Anniversary Ale: The Trouble
With Tribbles.”
Shmaltz isn’t just a success
story and it isn’t just Jewish.
It’s also high-quality craft
beer. RateBeer.com ranked
Shmaltz as one of the “Top
100 Brewers in the World”
in 2013. The company has
amassed 40 awards, includ-
ing 10 gold medals and six
silver medals combined at
the past several World Beer
Championships.
Born in Los Angeles,
Cowan spent his early child-
hood in Beverlywood. His
father taught special educa-
tion and English at nearby
Beverly Hills High School.
After college and before his
prophetic pomegranate episode,
Cowan spent time in New Orleans,
soaking up the diverse culture and
working at one of the oldest brewer-
ies in Louisiana.
“I didn’t think about what I wanted
to do,” Cowan said of that time. “I just
wanted to read, write music and eat
good food.” In the Big Easy, he first
developed an appreciation for beer,
particularly European styles.
When he returned home to the Bay
Area, Cowan set out to find his own

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February 16 • 2017

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