arts & life dining in Annabel Cohen Food Columnist Your Most Successful Passover Ever T here are two ways of thinking about Passover. On one hand, it’s a time of tradition — of gefilte fish, matzah balls and more. However, you can make your life easier — and your offerings more delicious — if you try to go with the grain (so to speak), rather than against it. Read on for more. TRADITION! These are the “meat” of Passover. Because people — especially our people — have distinct, specific preferences when it comes to holiday food, I offer these recipes with options: Make them and alter them to how you like them. Look at the descriptions for some quick ideas. GEFILTE FISH For variety, make this with all whitefish or another mild fish — I often use salmon and add a handful of chopped fresh dill to the mix. If you prefer your fish 82 April 14 • 2016 “sweet,” add more sugar to taste. I like peppery fish, so I add lots of ground pepper to the mix. 3 pounds ground whitefish (finished weight) 1½ pounds ground pickerel (finished weight) ¾ cup grated onions 2 cups grated carrots 1 cup matzah meal 4 large eggs 1 cup very hot water with a pinch of saffron threads (when water cools, discard saffron) 1½ tsp. salt ½ tsp. ground black pepper 1½ tsp. ground white pepper 1½ Tbsp. sugar 3 cups sliced carrots Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and hand chop or mix well with an electric mixer. Fill a very large, heavy bot- tomed pot with 6 quarts of water with 1 tsp. salt and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Fill another bowl with ice water — this will keep your hands cool and help shape the sticky fish mixture. Dip your hands in the water and shape the fish mixture into traditional “balls,” about ¾ to1 cup of fish for each ball. Reduce heat to medium-high and carefully drop the balls into the lightly boiling water (about 30-40 balls). Cover the pot, bring the water to a boil, reduce heat immediately to low and cook the fish for 75 minutes, shaking the pot slightly every once in a while (to loosen fish balls that may have stuck to the bottom). Uncover the pot, add the carrots and raise the heat to medium- high. Cook the fish for another 90 minutes, uncovered. Remove the fish balls with a slotted spoon from the pot to a flat dish, being careful not to stack the fish balls. Save some or all the remaining fish liquid and chill. Allow the fish to cool to room temperature and place the cooled fish in a large bowl with the carrots and cover well. Refrigerate the fish for up to three days. Serve the balls garnished with the carrots and some of the chilled fish liquid (becomes jel- lied), if desired. Makes 30 or so fish balls, depending on size. FOURINGREDIENT ROASTED CHICKEN If you want to add more ingredi- ents, add quartered new potatoes and carrots to the pan (about 4 cups of each) after the first 30 minutes of cooking. 1 roasting chicken (about 7 pounds) rinsed, patted dry (or equivalent cut-up chicken pieces) Kosher salt and pepper 4 cups chopped onions 20 garlic cloves, peeled and rough chopped ¼ cup olive oil Position rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 400°F. Season chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Arrange the chicken in a roasting pan (with or with- out a rack). Combine onions, garlic and olive oil and toss well. Arrange them around the chicken. Roast chicken 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F and spoon collected juices and onion mix- ture over the chicken (don’t worry that the onions do not stick). Roast chicken 40 minutes more until golden and thermom- eter inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 180°F. Transfer chicken to platter; surround with onions and garlic and drizzle with the pan juices. Tent with foil until ready to serve. You may also cut the chicken before placing on the platter and top with the onion and garlic mixture. GINGERBALSAMIC SWEET POTATO, CHERRY AND PEAR TZIMMES This is a modern version. For tra- ditional, use sweet potatoes, car- rots (instead of pears, 8 cups of 1-inch cubes) and prunes instead of the dried cherries. 6 large sweet potatoes, peeled and diced 4 firm but ripe pears, unpeeled, cut into ½-inch wedges 1 cup sweetened dried cher- ries, cranberries or golden raisins ½ cup balsamic vinegar (optional) ½ cup sweet red wine ¼ cup sugar 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 Tbsp. fresh minced, peeled gingerroot 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. ground black pepper ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg