world » e s say Cuban Shabbat American visitors experience the spirituality. Photo by Josh Tapper/JTA Havana, Cuba W e arrived in style to greet Shabbat at Temple Beth Shalom in Cuba’s capital city — in a 1956 Chevy Bel Air. It served as our taxi from Hotel Parque Central near Old Havana, 25 minutes away. Vintage U.S. cars from the 1950s — from before the U.S. imposed a far- ranging embargo against Cuba in 1960 following the revolution lifting Fidel Castro and his communist regime to power — line the streets in this bustling yet largely poor coastal city hugging the Gulf of Mexico. My wife, Beth, and I Robert Sklar visited Cuba as part of Contributing Editor a delegation sponsored by the Adolph and Rose Levis Jewish Community Center in Boca Raton, Fla. Celebrating Shabbat at Beth Shalom — from the egalitarian service in Spanish and Hebrew to my being asked to bless the wine at the subsequent com- munitywide meal — proved a highlight of the Feb. 3-8 mission. “We find our inspiration in groups like yours that come and visit,” Adela Dworin, the Cuban Jewish community’s resource- ful president, told us as we settled in on a Friday afternoon in an inviting synagogue once closed for 20 years because of disrepair until Cuban Jews now living in Miami paid for refurbishing. Marissa Lazar, 23, part of our travel group along with her mother, Karen of Boca Raton, Marissa Lazar Havana‘s Beth Shalom includes a 300-seat sanctuary, a Jewish community center, a Jewish community library and a Jewish community pharmacy. “We hope that someday, things will improve and there will be more incentive for younger Jews to stay.” — Adela Dworin, Cuban Jewry leader was “pleasantly surprised to see the younger generation lead our Friday night service” and “happy to see Jewish learning and practice is still important to Cuban Jews despite the many obstacles they have to live with.” Marissa is a 2014 Brandeis University graduate and now a student at New York Studio School of Drawing, Painting and Sculpture. She’s a past participant in both March of the Living to Poland and Israel in memory of the Holocaust and in Taglit- Birthright Israel in celebration of the ancestral Jewish homeland. “What I found most captivating in Cuba,” Marissa said, “was hearing the Jewish Cubans we met say they do not experience anti-Semitism — that Cubans Obama’s Visit Was ‘Transcendental’ B arack Obama’s historic visit to Cuba, the first by a sit- ting U.S. president to David Prinstein the island in 88 years, was also a milestone for the small Cuban Jewish community. “We are living a transcendental, historic moment. We have hope and very high expectations following the restoration of diplomatic relations between Cuba and the United States,” David Prinstein, vice president of the Cuban Jewish communi- ty, told Argentina-based Agencia Judia de Noticias/Jewish News Agency, following Obama’s visit March 20-22. “It’s a unique moment for both the Cuban people and for a great part of the American people.” Obama focused on deepening long- neglected ties between the U.S. and Cuba — “what the U.S. was doing was not working,” he told Cuba in a formal address. But he also drew a hard line on human rights abuses, including the sup- pression of political dissent, by the Castro government. Prinstein praised the achievements in areas such as business travel, trade and tourism following the relaxation of are Cuban no matter their religion. They are Cubans first.” Beth Shalom, which draws 60 to 80 Jews every Friday night, hews Conservative. Havana’s other two syna- gogues are the Sephardic Center, which includes a Holocaust exhibition, and Adath Israel, which is Orthodox. Havana Jews mix and mingle at all three; no one pays dues. Adath Israel, in a rougher neighborhood, did have to install a barbed-wire fence to fight vandalism. The city has two Jewish cemeteries. TRYING TO COPE Before the revolution, Cuba boasted 15,000 Jews among nearly 5 million people. Today, Jews number about 1,500 in a population of 11 million. The Jewish community remains engaged, eager for visitors and unabashedly pro-Israel. As its dynamic president and gov- ernmental liaison, Dworin is responsive to the Jews in outlying provinces while striving to tailor Jewish activities to vari- ous age groups nestled in Havana, where 85 percent of the Jews live. The youth center at Beth Shalom offers computers and Internet — a vital connection to the world beyond. The B’nai B’rith chapter at the Sephardic Center reflects the Jewish community’s gratitude toward humanitar- ian aid. Lack of good-paying jobs in a nation where, despite wide literacy, the typi- cal state wage rarely tops $40 a month amid monthly food rations has prompted many young up-and-coming Jews to leave for greener possibilities, particularly in America and Israel. The Caribbean island’s repressive econ- omy, one-party state, restricted Internet access and dismal attitude toward human rights and political dissent have been continued on page 38 the U.S. embargo on Cuba in 2015. But American Jews never stopped visiting Cuba, he said. Last month, Latin American young adults aged 25-40 interested in Jewish culture, education and leadership met in Havana for the Nahum Goldmann Fellowship seminar sponsored by the Memorial Foundation for Jewish Culture. It was the first time the event had taken place in Cuba since 1959. * The JN contributed to this JTA report. March 31 • 2016 37