arts & life
the b e s t o f
e ve r y t h i n g
Where’s Jim?
Successful restaurateur found another suburb for his dining operation.
W
hen he owned and operated restau-
formerly known as Larco’s Italian Chophouse,
rants in Metro Detroit’s northwest
owned by Mark and Susan Larco, whose
area, a big question was always
retirement hopefully puts only a temporary
asked about what he had on special that day.
halt to use of the fine restaurant name.
Today, the question is, “Where is Jim Sage?”
On the foyer wall was a picture of Mark’s
… For years, people have been asking if he was
dad, Pete, and uncles Nick and Mike, from
still in the restaurant business and, if so, where?
the Six Mile and San Juan, Detroit, days,
Jim’s Sajo’s restaurant on Moravian, near
when their Larco’s restaurant continually
Garfield, Clinton Township, is celebrating its
drew so many rave notices for its wonder-
15th year at the locale.
ful Italian food … Pete heading the kitchen,
Danny Raskin
Those who knew were not surprised that it
Mike
boss of the bar and Nick handling the
Senior Columnist
is at a location where nine other operations
butchering chores … all always available, too,
had failed … They were aware that Jim loved a
for whatever else was needed.
challenge … And apparently this was one that he loved,
Mark and Susan’s son and Pete’s grandson, Pete Jr.,
regardless of where it might be located.
headed the kitchen at Big Beaver Tavern and, before it,
It has been a decade and a half since Jim left one neck
Larco’s Italian Chophouse in Troy … When it comes to
of the woods and remained at the same spot in another
cooking, Pete is a wonderful chip off his grandfather Pete’s
… Maybe he’s tired of running all over or so happy with
talented shoulders.
the success of his latest challenge … Perhaps, every year
Before joining his dad and mom, Pete had attended
brings another “We did it!” sense of accomplishment with the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and
no desire to move anymore.
interned at New York’s prestigious Le Cirque restaurant.
Back in the 1980s, Jim was buying distressed restau-
SECOND EDITION of the L’Chaim Jewish menu that
rants, fixing them up and selling them … Remal’s, Alia’s,
now accompanies the regular Italian fare at Andiamo
Sageo’s, Signature, etc. … Today, his Sajo’s is not strange to Bloomfield, Telegraph just south of 15 Mile, reveals a
be on a site where multiple restaurants had failed.
favorite of Martha Stewart and Chef Emeril Lagasse on
Sajo’s is open Monday-Thursday, 11-11; Friday and
TV’s Food Network, smoked salmon cheesecake appe-
Saturday, 11-midnight, Sunday, noon-10 … Seating is
tizer … Other new items include chopped liver appetizer,
175 in the dining room, plus 25 in the lounge with 12 bar
entrees of lamb khoresh, salmon encrusted with falafel,
stools.
Yemenite spiced chicken and apple honey
Jim always took much pride in the
beef brisket, same brisket as used in corned
menus that his restaurants put out …
beef … Roasted vegetable tzimmes is also
And the one today is no exception, with
featured by Executive Chef Bill Hall.
eggplant Napoleon, scallion-encrusted
READER MINI REVIEW … from
fillet of sole, ribs, salmon, Italian chicken,
Susan Sherbow … “A short while ago, we
coconut shrimp, perch, etc. … just about
visited Selden Standard restaurant on
all of them favorites of his throughout the
Second Avenue in Detroit, where Mark and
years.
I enjoyed the small plates presentations.
Will he come back to the side of town
Because the plates were various sizes, the
where his greatest previous dining con-
knowledgeable server guided us in order-
quests have been achieved? … Don’t bet
ing the best sizes for our appetites. Our
that he won’t.
first course, Mark and I did not share. I
YOU MIGHT CALL IT just another
love beets, which I ordered, and Mark had
end of a traditional dining continuation
scallops, which I am allergic to.
… The closing of Big Beaver Tavern, Troy,
“At the bottom of my bowl of bite-size
beets was house-made ricotta, which was sweet and
creamy. The beets had a very light vinaigrette, and aru-
gula added a peppery taste. The pecans and pomegranates
sprinkled on the dish brought some crunch. Mark’s scal-
lops were brown on the outside and soft, not rubbery, he
said, on the inside. His scallops were perched on a luxuri-
ous butter sauce with a sweet note to it.
“We shared our second courses of spinach and ricotta
gnocchi, and steak and frites. The gnocchi was nestled in
a parmesan broth accompanied by earthy shitake mush-
rooms and crispy prosciutto. Our very tender and juicy
hanger steak was topped with the mild onion flavor of
shallot butter, and we thoroughly also enjoyed the thin
and crispy frites. It is certainly a restaurant that we defi-
nitely will go back to.”
OLDIE BUT GOODIE … Morris had fled his native
country and sold his assets and made five sets of solid
gold dentures with his cash, well above the limit he could
bring into the United States.
When he arrived in New York, the customs officer
asked why anybody would have five sets of gold dentures.
Morris explained, “Jews who keep kosher have two sepa-
rate sets of dishes for meat products and dairy products,
but I am so religious I also have separate sets of teeth.”
The customs officer said, “Well that accounts for two
sets of teeth. What about the other three?”
“Very religious Jews use separate dishes for Passover
as example,” said Morris, “but I am so Orthodox, I have
separate teeth for Passover meat and Passover dairy food.”
The customs official shook his head and said, “You
must be a man of very strong faith to have separate teeth
for meat and dairy products and likewise for Passover.
That accounts for four sets of teeth. What about the fifth
set?”
Morris looked around and spoke softly. “To tell the
truth,” he said, “once in a while I like a ham sandwich.”
CONGRATS … To Emily Rogow on her 80th birthday
… To Ed Greenfield on his birthday … To Florence “Flo”
DeVault on her birthday … To Ed Sosnick on his birthday
… To Marilyn Frommer on her birthday … To Mert and
Helene Robbins on their 57th anniversary.
*
Danny’s email address is dannyraskin@sbcglobal.net.
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40 January 7 • 2016
Brass Pointe Food & Spirits
2062310