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The Face Of Old-School Dining:
JN's Pick For Best Ttaliar Restaurant
Mark Zarkin carries on the Steven Lelli's family tradition in Farmington Hills.
Esther Allweiss Ingber { Contributing Writer
nter Steven Lelli's Inn on the Green
in Farmington Hills — named "Best
'Italian Restaurant" on the JN's 2015
Best of Michigan ballot — and it won't
be long until you're greeted by proprietor
Mark Zarkin. "My favorite part of the day
is going to every table and talking to each
guest," he says. "That is priority No. 1."
Zarkin opened the Farmington Hills
location overlooking Copper Creek Golf
Course in 2010 with his business partner
and lifelong friend Steven Lelli, whose
grandparents, Nerio and Irene Lelli, ran
their iconic Lelli's restaurant on Woodward
at Bethune in Detroit for 60 years. Today's
Steven Lelli's serves the same authentic
Italian food and hospitality from that
restaurant's glory days.
"I loved the original Lelli's downtown,"
Zarkin says. "Growing up, Steven Lelli and
I were friends, and through the years I
would help out there on busy holidays,
working the floor or the pasta stations."
Zarkin's interest in food was sparked at
a young age, peeling potatoes for his Aunt
Shirley at Bloom's Kosher Catering in Oak
Park. He worked for her on and off through
the years before opening his own pizza and
pasta shop in Troy after graduating Berkley
High School.
Through it all, Zarkin always retained
his interest in fine dining. "Growing up,
my parents took us to nice restaurants,"
he says. "I would watch the staff and the
management, taking mental notes in my
mind."
However, after seven years, he left
the restaurant business to start a chain
of sundry shops. Eventually, Steven Lelli
approached him about launching the next
incarnation of Lelli's and Zarkin jumped at
the chance.
Several longtime employees also came
to the new restaurant in Farmington Hills.
Some of the professional servers have
more than three decades with the Lelli's
organization. "Busboy Louie," 65, was hired
at age 15. Executive Chef Jeff Lyons is a
20-year employee.
Zarkin, who had grown up with Lelli's,
took on the challenge with gusto.
"My role was to do everything it took to
open the restaurant," he says. "Now my
role is to do everything it takes to run it.
I'm the guy who turns the key in the lock
F
Mark Zarkin
Lelli's Inn on the Green is open for
lunch at 11 a.m. Tuesday through
Friday. Weekend dinner begins at
4. Three seating times are possible
on New Year's Eve, when a 10-piece
band plays from 9 p.m.-midnight.
every morning and the one who turns out
the lights each night."
Zarkin handles everything from taking
reservations to food quality control. "My
first priority is taking care of the guests,"
he says. "I want my customers to have a
great experience and leave with the idea
that they can't wait to come back."
Old-school service like Zarkin's is what
keeps customers coming back and his
belief that food is king. Steven Lelli's Inn on
the Green — which celebrated five years in
November — is a haven for well-prepared,
tender steaks and chops, as well as other
staples of Italian and American cuisine.
"I like to quote Rodney Dangerfield in
the movie Back To School," Zarkin says.
"He said, 'Don't worry, if the roast beef is
right, they'll be back."
Zarkin shows his dedication to the Lelli's
tradition by coming to work at 5:30 a.m.
every other day to ensure the quality of
the famous soups, sauces and recipes.
Two signature items are vegetarian
minestrone soup, thick with minced
341JN Best of Michigan • December 2015
vegetables, spinach and tiny pasta, and
Spaghetti Bolognese. Its exceptionally
meaty sauce comes from chopped prime
tenderloin. A house favorite is their prime
tenderloin meatballs. And their famous Zip
sauce, true to Steve Lelli's grandparents'
original restaurant, adds unique flavor to
their perfectly cooked filet mignon, veal
and Iamb chops.
Chateaubriand is another customer
favorite sliced tableside and cooked to
perfection. "We are one of only a few
restaurants that deboned Dover sole,
tableside," he adds.
Bananas Foster and Berries or Cherries
Jubilee, flambeed tableside and served
over vanilla ice cream, or carrot cake —
the absolute best in the area — make for
the perfect ending to a memorable meal.
Zarkin is proud of having "award-winning
wines from around the world," noting
that his is one of only 11 restaurants in
the country honored this year with Wine
Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence.
The restaurant received the publication's
Award of Excellence in 2014 as well. You'll
find many a famous name and photo on
the wine lockers that line the restaurant's
entryway.
Zarkin also makes his own fresh fruit-
infused vodka, bourbon and rock-and-rye
drinks. "We're famous for our bourbon
and have one of the best Scotch lists in
the country," he said. "No one else has
anything like it."
Zarkin is passing on the tradition to his
son, who comes in from college a few
times a month to learn the business —
and the old-school service — at which he
excels.
"He will be the fourth generation to
carry on that tradition — for old and young
alike," Zarkin says. "Old-school dining will
never go out of style." ❑
Steven Lelli's Inn
on the Green
27925 Golf Pointe Blvd.
Farmington Hills, MI 48331
(248) 994-1111
www.lellisinn.com