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La Dolce Vita

By Esther Allweiss Ingber

a Dolce Vita (IdV) may call itself
"Detroit's best-kept secret,"
but its name surfaced several
times for my Jewish News poll last
year seeking the Metro area's"Most
Romantic" restaurant. Since making
a long-overdue first visit to IdV this
summer, I'm smitten, too.
I mean — who knew? Just a peek
of the enchanting oasis is visible on
the east side of Woodward Avenue
at Cedarhurst, and the outdoor sign
says only"IdV." The restaurant-bar
is four blocks north of McNichols,
across from Palmer Park.
Definitely dine or have drinks on
the secluded brick patio/courtyard
if the weather is still holding. From
black wicker chairs, guests look up
at a tall wall nearly covered with
ivy. Pots of vivid pink flowers, live
trees, running fountains, strings of
overhead lights and lamppost globe
lights add to the, yes, romantic at-
mosphere. Live music may be heard
here or inside.
Entering IdV from the patio, I
discovered an intimate space whose
charming decor is in keeping with
the restaurant's northern Italian
menu. Owner Enrico Roselli has
pulled off the sensation of dining in
Tuscany.
The narrow dining room's high-
arched windows overlook the patio
on one side, the bar on the other.
A large classical mythology paint-
ing is reflected in an opposite wall's
mirror. Framed, mostly black-and-
white photography is displayed on
brick walls painted a mossy green.
Of particular interest are shots of
Italian director Federico Fellini, ac-
tress Anita Ekberg and scenes from
Fellini's classic (1960) film, La Dolce
Vita ("The Sweet Life").Three ornate
chandeliers with slender arms hang
overhead.
The remodeled IdV building
housed Salute restaurant from
1985-95 and originally was an Arme-
nian funeral home. John Cassetta,
a retired educator and one of IdV's
senior servers, presented that short
history. Frank Hatton, another very
pleasant senior server, took care of
me. He said IdV has"one of the low-
est turnovers of staff" he's experi-
enced.
A pleasing decor is appreciated,
but food always trumps decor when
dining out. I'm pleased to say that
Executive Chef Matteo Giuffrida and

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46 October 20151

RED THREAD

his colleagues turn out excellent
fare. Giuffrida worked at the defunct
II Posto Ristorante in Southfield, one
of my favorite Italian restaurants,
and also was the personal chef of
retired President Ronald Reagan. Ex-
ecutive Chefs Mark Williamson and
Neftaly Ayala have about 13 years
each working at IdV.
I had warm bread with olive oil
before ordering. On Hatton's recom-
mendation, I chose Scampi Arrosto,
made with garlic and a balsamic
reduction.These European-style
prawns, served with a puff pastry,
were opened like miniature lob-
ster claws. Vegetarian appetizers
include lightly sauteed artichoke
hearts drizzled with pesto sauce
and chevre eggplant served with
tomato-basil sauce and goat cheese.
I was delighted by Cavatelli in
Salsa Di Porcini, a recipe that came
with the chef from II Posto. It was
like an old friend to try this again.
Durum wheat semolina pasta and
porcini mushrooms were blended in
a white truffle oil cream sauce. OK,
you may have noticed I wasn't diet-
ing this night.
For a sampling of entrees, Hatton
brought sauteed Lake Erie perch in
a lemon-caper cream Chardonnay
sauce. The crust was crispy. The two
treatments of tender veal included
one in a bright-tasting Marsala wine
sauce, and the earthier Scalloppine
di Vitello al Barolo. Dinner always
includes a medley of seasonal veg-
etables and mashed potatoes.
"Very few restaurants still make a
Caesar salad tableside,"Cassetta said
after expertly preparing the salad
for a couple sitting near me.
The owner's wife, Denise Roselli,
a professional baker, makes the
restaurant's popular cheesecakes,
carrot cake and other desserts. I
indulged in Chef Mark's vanilla-bean
creme brulee. Lovely.
Closed Mondays and offering
lunch on weekdays only, IdV presents
a hearty Sunday brunch menu from
11 a.m.-3 p.m. Valet parking ($5) is
available for evening visits.

LA DOLCE VITA
17546 Woodward
Detroit, MI 48203
(313) 865-0331
www.ldvrestaurant.net
$$$$ out of $$$$$