... Villa Garibaldi, where the condemned were burned at the stake on the square near the Steri is now this peaceful green park. Courtesy of Bianca Del Bello. Inset: Palazzo Steri is now the Museum of the Inquisition. This imposing 14th-century building was originally constructed as the private residence of the powerful Sicilian lord Manfredi III Chiaramonte. Palermo, Sicily. Destruction of synagogues failed to extinguish the Jewish spirit. "-INU -Mt7 "1 1'l In Palermian multicultural style, street names are shown in three languages: Italian, Hebrew and Arabic. 36 VICOLO MESCHITA ;wpm 1z. 21-1 71 Vicolo Meschita, the synagogue street, is named after a mosque. Photo by Alex S ha lan d VIA DEI CARTARI Photo by A lex S ha lan d "The Triumph of Death" features a Jewish figure among the pious spared by Death. Jewish Cultural Renaissance Of The 21st Century In her article "The Italian Anousim that Nobody Knows" (2009), Rabbi Barbara Aiello writes that burning synagogues and the neofiti forced Italian Jews to take their traditions into cellars and secret rooms of their homes. The memories and stories were kept alive, even when descendants forgot their exact meaning. The number of those with a "call of blood," who think they had Jewish ances- try and want to learn more about it or even embrace their newly discovered her- itage, is on the rise throughout southern Italy. Classes in Hebrew, Jewish culture and art are held all over Palermo and, in 2011, Aiello officiated the bar mitzvah ceremony of Salvo Asher Parrucca, the first bar mitzvah in Palermo in 500 years. In the contemporary European con- text of increasing anti-Semitic and anti-Israeli attitudes, Sicily presents a new and unusually optimistic chapter in the history of the Jewish diaspora. The destruction of synagogues and the burn- ing of "Judaizes" five centuries ago failed to extinguish the Jewish spirit. Aiello told numerous stories, some from her own family, of traditions whose meaning was often forgotten, but that survived in their homes' secret cellars and in people's hearts. Cooking continued to conform to kosher dietary laws. Family burials were done outside the church with bodies wrapped in simple shrouds. Special mar- riage blessings were recited in a "strange language" at home under a crocheted canopy. Deathbed confessions of Jewish ancestry to the families were common. The Anousim descendants, whose heritage was so cruelly stolen, hidden and ignored, sustained their history in their flesh and blood. And perhaps it is the call of blood that drives a continuously grow- ing number of "B'nei Anousim" to search for their historical legacy and reclaim it. While writing this article, I came across Steven Spielberg's speech address- CONTINUED ON PAGE 38 September 17 • 2015