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September 03, 2015 - Image 56

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2015-09-03

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

arts & life >> the best of everything

Phoenix Rises Anew

New family owners increase Asian choices at Golden Phoenix.

I

t is rare for a Chinese restaurant to
Golden Phoenix is open 364
change ownership other than to a close
days of the year (closed only
family member ... And even rarer that it
on Thanksgiving Day) ... with
would do so multiple times.
seven-day hours of Monday-
Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.;
But the 43rd anniversary of Golden
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.;
Phoenix Chinese Restaurant on Orchard
Lake Road, north of 15 Mile, in Sugar Tree
Sunday, noon-9 p.m.
Plaza, is marked by new owners who seem
The updated menu now
to have the beginning of a new Asian dining
includes a full bar selection ...
tradition.
Modernization of the Chinese-
The immediate predecessor owners were
themed interior decorating with
the staple sort, of which there are many ...
more improvements expected
but with the present ownership of Golden
to come ... The present seating
Phoenix by youthful Arthur and Ava Fung,
capacity is about 110.
there is an influx of fresh young blood bent
Best sellers include the legendary Golden
on delicious fulfillment.
Phoenix egg rolls, which are made and rolled
The original own-
fresh daily with chicken,
ers had brought their
shrimp and vegetables
Golden Phoenix from
... No pork ... Also, the
Maple and Telegraph to
traditional almond bone-
open at Sugar Tree and,
less chicken has been a
after a minor measure
favorite served with its
of success, sold to a
homemade daily sauce
second couple ... With
and customer-pleasing
sizzling stir-fry from
that couple's retirement
a year ago came the cur-
Szechuan to Chicken Pad
rent team that seems
Thai ... The generation
to have injected a "new
to generation seafood
wave" of Chinese dining
Wor Bar served on
to go with their youth-
Arthur Fung, Ave Fung, Celia Zhao
a hot platter, golden
ful exuberance ... Like
nest seafood, almond
the addition of authentic
pressed duck, etc.
Thai dishes as well ... and thoughts of even
It is significant that the Golden Phoenix
more styles.
of now is available to meet all needs such
Traditional dishes of Cantonese, Mandarin as gluten-free products ... in addition to
and Szechuan have been maintained but
home-made chili sauces to spice up dishes if
slightly enhanced ... Art and Ava explored
desired ... All requests will be honored if the
and wanted to inspire on other levels as well
ingredients are in house.
and so the addition of Thai on the ever-
An all-important factor is Art and Ava
expanding menu ... It is notable that one
listening to the desires of their customers
of the main chefs, Ava's father, Bing Zhao, is
... Communication is a major focal point
also one of the owners with an experience of
toward achievement of a successful endeavor
more than 15 years in both Chinese and Thai in the restaurant business.
cuisine, plus Avis sister Celia Zhao, also an
READER MINI REVIEW ... from Susan
owner.
Sherbow ... "Mark, our daughter Alexandra

and I went to Indo on Cass Lake
Road, Keego Harbor, for lunch
and were very pleased with the
great flavors.
"We started out with two
appetizers, Bakwan, potato
fritters, and Satge Gaging, beef
satay. The crisp fritters were
made of potato, onion, corn and
crunchy cabbage deep-fried in a
tempura-like batter and served
with a tomato puree for dipping.
The beef satay was delicious,
grilled crispy on the outside and tender on
the inside. Two flavorful Indonesian dips
were provided, peanut sauce and a sweet soy.
"I had the Ayam Java, a spicy chicken dish
with a sauce served over the tender chicken
breast and leg, a puree of almonds, coconut
milk, lemon grass and turmeric, served with
white rice, broccoli and mini Chinese cab-
bage. The blend of flavors create a sweet, yet
savory taste with a hint of lemon.
"Mark had the Tong Seng Daging, pepper-
corn beef, which reminded us of a beef stew.
The broth was beefy and had small chunks
of onion, tomatoes, mango and cabbage.
Alex enjoyed Bihun Goreng Karri, curry ver-
micelli with vegetables and grilled chicken.
The chicken was very tender and tasted as if
made with spices similar to those in the beef
satay:'
QUESTION & ANSWER DEPT.... "We
have enjoyed Seafood Wellington but can't
remember where. Can you tell us where it
can be gotten?" ... Joyce Alman.
[Many restaurants serve it, mostly sea-
food eateries. Wherever you have it may
not be the same at other spots. I remember
Lowry's in West Bloomfield serving it, made
by chef/owner Dan Lowry. It was one of his
big favorites: salmon topped by a seafood
mousse of shrimp and scallops with fresh
spinach. Others I've seen and tasted are
topped with crabmeat and spinach, scallops

and lobster, etc. One thing almost all Seafood
Wellingtons have in common, though, is that
they are wrapped in a puffed pastry.]
IF YOU THINK that gent in a Jimmy
John's television commercial who says,
"What took you so long?" is localite Newton
"Newtie" Berlin, you may be correct ... It
sure looks like him.
BIG PROBLEM IN many restaurants is
proving near disastrous ... Too many young
chefs think that they have to be innovative
to succeed or make a name for themselves
... This is a big mistake ... Deviating too
far away from the proven recipe is not the
answer.
People who enjoy a particular dish will
hardly return for it if the same taste and pre-
sentation is not as good as before ... There is
nothing wrong with innovation, but there is
when chefs, young and older, unsuccessfully
make too drastic a change.
SIGHTSEEING ... Harvey "Rocky" Sosin,
still a chip off his dad with laughs like Max
Sosin got from Harvey's mom Ruth ... Frank
Kosins, son of onetime excellent kosher
caterers, Bill and May Kosins, loving his food
and still looking svelte.
ERRATA DEPT. ... Wrong spelling on
John Reinhart, one of the owners of new
Triple Nickel restaurant in Birmingham...
Erroneous spelling as Reinhard was bad typ-
ing.
OLDIE BUT GOODIE ... The doctor told
Rothstein, a highly successful builder, that he
needed an operation. "Do you want a local
anesthetic?" Rothstein shook his head, "Let's
not pinch pennies, doctor. Price is no object.
Use the imported one:'
CONGRATS ... To Steve Pardo on his
birthday ... [Note: Files are not kept on
birthday or anniversary congrats ... They
must be submitted again each year.] ❑

Danny's email address is

dannyraskin@sbcglobal.net.

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56

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