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38 March 2015 I
RED TifitrilD
f attentive service and a handsome
setting matter to you as much as
access to first-rate food and bever-
ages, then you can't do much better
than Bistro 82 and Sabrage Lounge,
kicking up the excitement level in
downtown Royal Oak.
Bistro 82, winner of last year's Jewish
News readers' poll for Best New Res-
taurant, is located on South Lafayette
at the corner of Fourth Street. Along
with Sabrage, it's part of a luxurious,
two-story entertainment complex that
celebrated its first anniversary Feb. 12.
Owner Aaron Fenkell Belen, presi-
dent and founder of Berkley-based
AFB Hospitality Group, oversaw the
renovation and design of the former
tenant restaurant. Space was boosted
to 9,500 square feet. The exterior fac-
ing Lafayette sports windows on both
levels.
Inside Bistro 82, the two walls op-
posite the windows feature a glowing
onyx bar and a huge, multi-colored
abstract by artist Stan Friedman. Soft-
touch, faux leather for seating in ivory
also brightens the gray, contemporary
dining room. Black chairs and dark
gray tables left bare provide a contrast
to the parade of white china. Spanish
porcelain tiles cover floors. The cool
vibe is enhanced by an unobtrusive,
Harman-designed state-of-the-art
sound system.
"We used the best materials to ele-
vate the guest experience,"Belen said.
For example,"our NanaWall single
track sliding glass system allows for
proper insulation in the winter and
open air dining in the summer'
Sabrage, a posh space that can be
rented, offers a DJ and dancing on
Friday and Saturday nights.
Guests may choose to continue
their evening upstairs after dining
on Executive Chef Derik Watson's
exquisite French-accented cuisine.
He's a veteran of Iridescence in De-
troit's MotorCity Casino, Rugby Grille
in Birmingham and former Tribute res-
taurant in Farmington Hills. Sous chef
Norman Fenton assists Watson.
Visitors to Bistro 82 order from digital
tablets instead of menus. Pressing the
name of an item on the screen pro-
duces its picture, price and sometimes
ingredients and/or wine pairings.
Tablets allow for quick menu changes.
My husband, Mike, and I chose the
same soup at dinner. Wide-brimmed
bowls held a mushroom medley.
Simultaneously, two servers poured
hot mushroom bisque over the mush-
—
rooms and presented a thin Parmesan
cracker. The soup tasted earthy and
light.
Appetizers include lamb spare ribs,
cauliflower Romesco and grilled arti-
choke.The chilled shellfish is popular.
Mike's entree was Wagyu hanger
steak, perfectly prepared to his
medium-well specification. His plate
included always-yummy Béarnaise
sauce.
Cobia, the restaurant's best-selling
entree, has a taste similar to sea bass.
Our personable server Dave helped
me decide in favor of roasted sea scal-
lops, his favorite. Bistro 82's seafood
chef perfectly seared my scallops.
They came with parsnip puree and
root vegetables, including salsify,
which is pale with a hint of nuttiness.
The presentation was gorgeous. My
plate looked like the state of Florida,
with six large scallops marking cities
on a map. Green forgione sauce was
on either side of the peninsula, resem-
bling rolling waves.
We shared ratatouille: pinwheel
slices of squash, zucchini and egg-
plant with tomatoes. A little sea salt
perked up the vegetables.
For dessert, I chose bread pudding
with candied pecans, almond creme,
cherries and a dollop of Calder's va-
nilla ice cream. Joseph McGlynn, the
dining room manager, brought a little
more ice cream in a tabletop holder
with a depression. Caramel sauce
goes there for dipping tiny cinnamon-
sugar beignets. Another notable des-
sert is yogurt panna cotta, blueberry
compote with lemon.
Scott Sadoff is director of op-
erations for AFB Hospitality Group.
Assistant general manager Matthew
Hollander oversees Bistro 82 and its
beverage program, featuring 350-500
bottles in the bistro's wine cellar and
500 in Sabrage's champagne cellar.
Belen aptly named his restaurant
Bistro 82, "because 1982 was one of
the best in 100 years for vintages in
the Bordeaux wine region, and it's
also my birth year:'
For more on Bistro 82, see page 60.
BISTRO 82
401 S. Lafayette
Royal Oak, MI 48067
(248) 542-0082
www.bistro82.com
$$$ out of $$$$