FOOD
FOODIE
Selden Standard
By Esther Allweiss Ingber
rroving
the truth of that oft
quoted line from the film, Field
of Dreams, Selden Standard
partners Evan Hansen and Executive
Chef Andy Hollyday did build it, and
for food
the people did come
that is perfectly executed in a sleek,
yet casual space.
-
as the sea
change more frequently
sons evolve to provide more varied
produce:' Hansen said.
...
Especially in the dark of winter,
Selden Standard is a welcoming sight,
enlivening its block of Second Avenue
near Selden Street. The site once
Recent additions
are rabbit ragout
seared scallop dish that features
sunchoke puree, roasted grapes,
cauliflower and almonds.
The "Vegetables and Such" menu
and
would have been described as located
in the dicey Cass Corridor, but now it's
-
part of Detroit's rebranded "Midtown:'
"This is a great and supportive
neighborhood with a strong sense of
category features 10 items. I've twice
enjoyed roasted beets, teamed with
house ricotta, pomegranate and
community that we really enjoy:' said
Hansen, noting that Selden Standard
is just two blocks from the Max M.
Fisher Music Center
on
walnuts. More choices are squash flat
bread, polenta al forno and wonderful
roasted Brussels sprouts.
Woodward.
Collaborative, an architect
duo in Detroit, transformed a former
stylish
white, black and cedar interior decor,
Selden Standard could hold its
own
anywhere.
A friendly touch inside is the com
munal table for up to 14 diners. I've
agreed to be seated there-twice and
enjoyed conversing with
my
neigh
bors.
Something special here is the em
phasis on rustic, wood-fired, Argen
tlnean-style cooking, which imparts
intense, smoky flavors at a very high
heat. Preparations at the wood-fired
wall oven and dual-grated, wood-fire
grills are visible behind a long counter
in the dining room. Everything smells
great.
Chef Hollyday,
a
graduate of the
Culinary Institute of America in Hyde
Park, N.Y., has cooked in many notable
including the former Trib
Farmington Hills and Michael
Symon's Roast in Downtown Detroit.
Selden Standard General Manager Mi
chael Eisenberg also worked at Roast.
restaurants,
ute in
Selden Standard takes a farm-to
table approach in lts food offerings.
ensure freshness and variety,
Chef Hollyday will be working with a
number of local farms and producers
To
throughout the year.
At dinner, items are mostly served
small plates-style with shareable
portions. Two entrees are grilled quail
with chestnut puree, radicchio and
pickled cranberries, and whole grilled
trout with fennel, fingerling potatoes
and salsa verde. Interesting combina
tions!
"The
to
36
February 2015
IItID TnItLlID
change a
has
already started
bit and will continue to
menu
never
friend
restaurant
bar. Decked outside in natural wood
planks and dark gray brick, with a
liked pastrami until my
Jerry gave me a bite of his
smoked pastrami sandwich, made
with giardiniera, gruyere, grilled onion
and mustard aioli. Wow! Jerry, his wife,
Fran, and I loved that day's potato
leek soup, velvety and really tasty.
My dessert suggestion if you're
not qolnq chocolate is Banoffee Tart.
I
Et AI
cleaners into this
a
.
It includes dulce de
leche, bruleed
bananas and vanilla cream.
Selden Standard recently intro
duced a weekend brunch, from 10
a.m.-2 p.m. Hansen said the early
feedback indicates that "Andy's pasta
dishes are quite popular
the sweet
and peo
potato ravioli in particular
ple really like the roasted vegetables,
like the cauliflower in tahini sauce:'
Selden Standard's wine and beer
lists are designed to be both food
friendly and value-oriented. The best
selling wine is a "Cab Franc/Merlot/
Syrah blend called Puydeval for $10
per glass:' Hansen said.
"Our craft cocktails are an exten
sion of the kitchen:' he added. "We're
trying to use seasonal ingredients
or preserve fru-its to maximize that
intense, seasonal flavor:'
A patio with seating for 30-36 will
open in the spring.
"It's really quite nice out there dur
ing the warmer months with a lot of
filtered light and a surprisingly peace
ful feel:' Hansen said. "I think people
will enjoy it' RT
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SELDEN STANDARD
3921 Second Ave.
Detroit, MI48201
(313) 438-5055
www.seldenstandard.com
$$Y2 to $$$ out of $$$$