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January 22, 2015 - Image 37

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2015-01-22

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

>> dining in the d

"Much-heralded Star Deli slow-cooks
its own tender temptations"



Entertaining
a Group?
Order the best
trays in town!

Jamaican Paradise

TAR Order your
ELI Holiday Trays &

I

t's cold and snowy in
Michigan, but the flavorful
food of sunny Jamaica is as
close as W Nine Mile Road, east of
Coolidge.
Native Jamaican Janice West,
who's been in this country 25
years, opened her Oak Park-based
Jamaican Paradise ("With a Touch
of Sour as the sign says) in April
2013.
The small former diner has a
available at breakfast but an authentic
modest decor with touches of Jamaican Jamaican choice is ackee. The seasoned
pride in the colorful coat of arms wall
stir-fry of tomatoes, green peppers and
painting, and stripes of the national
Scotch bonnets is teamed with saltfish
flag's yellow, green and black on table-
(de-salted and soaked salt cod) and
cloths beneath clear plastic.
fruit. The dish is supposed
A divorced mother of
to resemble scrambled eggs
three, West also works part-
because of its texture and
time as a registered nurse
bright yellow color.
at Providence Hospital in
Besides tilapia fish avail-
Southfield, her employer for
able in a variety of treat-
17 years.
ments — escovitch style
Although West isn't a
is the spiciest — Jamaican
trained chef, she's always
Paradise offers seven veg-
been good at cooking.
etarian items. They include
"I cooked for parties and
roasted vegetable curry,
groups on a large scale
vegetable fritters with basil
she said. "The families and
cream sauce, curried sweet
Jamaican Paradise
guests encouraged me to
potato
apple soup, and baby
13500 W. Nine
open a restaurant."
kale
raspberry
salad with
Mile, Oak Park
If you're not squeamish
nectarine
balsamic
dress-
(248) 629-7884
about removing some
ing.
Paradise
Dinner
Roast,
Visit on Facebook
bones, the goat curry here is
a
main
entree,
is
a
tofu
and
$$ out of $$$$
a delicious experience. The
soy "roast" to which West
meat is tender, tasty and not
adds vegetables, peppers
spicy. Ask for jerk seasoning to make it
and Jamaican seasonings.
hotter. Gravy is ladled over the plate's
The same menu is offered through-
accompanying rice-pea mounds.
out the day. Discounted lunch specials
A co-diner fond of jerk chicken
on the chalkboard could include black
was very impressed with Jamaican
bean burger, jerk wings or fried chick-
Paradise's rendition. The dark pieces of en, always with a choice of two sides.
chicken grilled with allspice are nicely
Two more Jamaican items I sampled
charred, and the meat falls right off
included goat soup with dumplings.
the bones. Traditional Scotch bonnets
The flavor was mellow and savory, but
provide the heat.
I had to pick out pieces of skin. Black
"They're hotter than Habanero pep-
cake (due to food coloring) is a rich,
pers," West said.
rum-soaked melange of blended dried
Another time, I savored bony but
fruit, such as mango, raisins and cher-
ries. I liked it.
meaty Jamaican oxtail with gravy and
accompanying fried plantains. West
Juices and other "island beverages"
said oxtail, jerk chicken and goat curry
are available, but not liquor. Jamaican
are her most popular dishes. My two
Blue Mountain coffee is brewed upon
sides were the not-too-mild macaroni
request, and I'm told it's very good.
and cheese, and a sauteed mixture of
Jamaican Paradise is open daily,
shredded cabbage with peppers, car-
but only from "sunset" to midnight
rots, zucchini and scallions.
on Saturdays. A Jamaican band plays
I give thumbs up for the food and
on either the third or fourth Saturday,
also the friendly service. Everything
next on Jan. 24. In addition, ballroom
takes time to prepare, especially if
dancing is offered from 6:30-8 p.m.
the restaurant is busy, so don't be in a
Wednesdays.
hurry. I liked that each plate is brought
While dining here, I heard a reggae
out piping hot, rather than left under a
version of "Go Tell It on the Mountain"
heat lamp until the table's other orders
and another singer's call to "legalize
are completed.
marijuana:'
Eggs, pancakes and French toast are
Yes, Mon? ❑

— Danny Raskin

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Expires 2/05/15. One Per Order. Not Good Holidays. I
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January 22 • 2015

37

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