Hope Is Alive It's hard to escape classic American cars in Cuba. Detroiters learn the joys and challenges of Cuba's Jews. Mark Jacobs I Special to the Jewish News W e passed around the envelope and in- serted a cash gift for a bar mitzvah boy we had never met. Our group of 22, mostly Jewish De- troiters, was visiting a synagogue for Shabbat services in Ha- vana on Halloween night. As a uniquely memorable treat, there happened to be a bar mitzvah that night, a rarity for a country that now has only about 1,300 Jews, down from a one-time population of 24,000. But as we sat with the congregation and joined in their celebration, we had no idea that a major historic moment between Cuba and the U.S. was just weeks away. When President Obama announced last Tuesday that the two countries would begin the path toward normal- ization of relations — a process that will not be so simple — it represented a thawing of decades-old tensions that has already stirred up raw emotions and controversy. For Jews, the news is especially personal, as a key component of the his- 28 January 2015 1 10 THUM toric deal was the release of Alan Gross said sadly. We assumed the issue was from a Cuban prison where he has been settled, a sobering reality check to us held for the past five years after being curious tourists. convicted and sentenced to 15 years But with all other top- for "promoting to destabilize activi- ics, Dworin was hopeful ties and subvert constitutional order." and humorous. His crime: attempting to bring the "How long will you be Internet to Cuba's Jewish community. president?" we inquired. She grinned, "This is Gross' imprisonment was a central topic of conversation when we met Cuba, presidential terms with the "presidenta" of the Jewish last a lifetime? Adele Dworin, community in Cuba, Adela Dworin, As head of the frail "presidenta" Jewish community, Ad- a 70-ish woman with a warm smile, of the Cuban an indomitable determination and a ela knows she must ask Jewish keen sense of humor. Jewish visitors for help in Community the form of money, cloth- Gross' imprisonment had been a cause celebre within the Cuban Jew- ing, medicine, books, everything. There really is no choice; ish community, a powerful reminder of the dark side of Cuba, despite all it's a matter of survival, and so there is the beauty and friendliness we had no shame or hesitation in her pleas. "I have a Ph.D. in shnorring," she encountered. Dworin, as the premiere Jewish says unabashedly. She told us of the leader, had been a frequent visitor of few times she met with Fidel Castro Gross, and she told us how she tried who, she says, eased up on religious to boost his spirits and assist in his restrictions 20 years ago. At that first release, but to no avail. He had lost meeting many years ago, she asked more than 100 pounds and had fallen why he never visited a synagogue. into a deep depression and now, she "Because you never asked me," he told us then, she no longer held out replied, so she invited him to come to much hope. "I can do nothing', she services and speak, which he did and , !), spoke for "only" two hours about the Old Testament. Fifteen years later, during a return visit, she showed him a picture of the two of them from years earlier, to which he said, "You look the same? Her reply, "You, too, and now we're both lying? But her humor didn't mask the seriousness of the struggle Cuban Jews face every day in a society gripped by poverty, isolation from the U.S. and repression Behind a closed door, we asked what the Jewish community really thought of communism and Castro. "We don't take a position either way," she quickly snapped, a reply clearly rehearsed. "But how do you really feel?" we pressed her. She gave us a shrug and a half-smile. We had gotten our answer. To visit Jewish Cuba in 2014 is both heartbreaking and heart-warming. The community seems to be hanging on by a thread. There are no rabbis left on the island, only an occasional visit from a few visiting rabbis from abroad. The people, like all Cubans, live very meager lives (a doctor, we're told, is paid about $40 a month, less than a