FOOD

Hidden

Treasure

Discovered in Oakland Count

FOODIE

Elegant estate jewelry and

La Feria
Spanish Tapas

beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces can

be yours for less than you would imagine

By Esther Allweiss Ingber

thers may call the area be-
tween Detroit's New Center
and downtown "Midtown,"
but Elias Khalil proudly states
that his La Feria Spanish Tapas
restaurant is located in the
Cass Corridor. The success of La
Feria and other local retailers is
reshaping the reputation of this long-
time, down-and-out neighborhood.
Native eastside Detroiter Khalil
moved 15 years ago from Royal
Oak to the historic district located
south of Wayne State University.
He co-wrote an Images of America
series book about the Cass Corridor
in 2012 and, when not encumbered
by errands, happily bikes or walks to
his workplace on Cass Avenue near
Willis Street.
His partners in La Feria are Pilar
Baron-Hidalgo, who emigrated 18
years ago from Seville, Spain, and her
friend and his sister, Naomi Khalil.
Naomi's former marriage to a Spaniard
is how Baron-Hidalgo came to know
both Khalils ("they are like my siblings
here") within Metro Detroit's Spanish
community.
La Feria specializes in tapas (small
plates). The assortment of hot and
cold appetizers, meant for sharing, are
what Spanish people eat while drink-
ing in bars. A complete meal here is
comprised of several items, mostly
$3-$7.The bar includes Sangria, draft
beer and exclusively Spanish wine.
"We are the first full-fledged Span-
ish restaurant in Detroit since Casa
de Espana closed in 2001," said Elias
Khalil.
A $50,000 prize from Hatch De-
troit, a startup business competition,
provided seed money for the partners'
dream of turning their Sevillian-style
festival each April into La Feria.
The partners renovated a long-
abandoned warehouse that had
housed an automotive service garage
in the 19205. The resultant storefront
accommodates up to 49 guests at
lunch (11-3) and dinner (starting at
5), daily except Sunday. Reservations
aren't accepted.
The room's red and yellow walls
sport a Spanish flag, posters, photo-
graphs and other items from Spain.
Baron-Hidalgo, a ceramic artist, made
one of the hanging tiles. Daylight
streams through a glass block window
near the bar, above an original red
brick wall.
"Marvelous" is my overall word
for La Feria's food. The recipes from
Baron-Hidalgo's mother and grand-

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mother are in the cooking tradition of
Andalusia, a region in southern Spain.
Baron-Hidalgo had definite opin-
ions on what a first-time visitor ought
to try.
A cold tapa called Tortilla Espanola,
or Spanish omelet, is more of a raised
pie wedge and comprised of fried
potatoes and caramelized onions. Add
a bit of sweet red pepper garnish to
enhance each tasty bite.
"The tortilla is a Spanish tradition7
Baron-Hidalgo said."Every bar in Spain
has it:"
Next came Gamba y Aioli: tail-on
grilled shrimp in olive oil accented
with herbs, dried chilis and garlic. (Oh,
do they love garlic here!) Sop up the
sauce with slices of La Feria's custom-
ized baguette bread. It's from Golden
Wheat Bakery in Hamtramck.
I also liked Berenjenas Fritas, lightly
battered strips of eggplant that are
flash-fried for under a minute and
then drizzled with honey for a nice
flavor contrast.
Instead of ordering flan, a creamy
vanilla egg custard topped with
caramel sauce, I made my dessert the
Tocino Relleno de Datil. Each bacon-
wrapped date is stuffed with a whole
almond. My taste buds appreciated
savory, sweet and crunchy sensations
all at once.
Two more tapas of note are
Channpinones en Salsa Verde, grilled
Portobello mushrooms stuffed with
a parsley, lemon and garlic mixture,
and Sardinas Asadas, grilled fresh and
large sardines, including head and
tail, with lemon and tarragon. From
the Pinchos, or toothpick, tapas list,
Baron-Hidalgo recommended Tostada
de Almogrote, cured goat and sheep
cheese spread on a baguette.
Additional daily specials, besides pa-
ella on Tuesday nights, will be added
to mark La Feria's first anniversary on
Oct. 31. Coming up, the restaurant is
hosting flamenco performers starting
at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, Nov. 13. RT

LA FERIA SPANISH TAPAS
4130 Cass
Detroit, MI 48201
(313) 285-9081
www.laferiadetroit.com
$1/2 out of $$$$

