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Food placed The perfectly balanced portions inside vacuum-sealed, Cryovec high- we enjoyed, with optional wine pair- gauge plastic bags is cooked slowly ings, will be replaced by nine equally to perfection in a low-temperature wonderful courses on Sept. 30. water bath. The method maintains Torino owner Noah Dorfman and the food's natural integrity. Lipar, family friends, were both at a "We can achieve consistent and crossroads when the chef returned accurate results within a few degrees home in January 2013 ready to put in our cooking7Lipar said. "We used down roots. After earning his degree it [sous vide] for the crab apples in at Scottsdale Culinary Institute in Ari- your perch dish and for the veal in zona, Lipar cooked at cutting-edge our sixth course." The veal was then restaurants in New York, Chicago and finished on Torino's yakatori (Japa- Stockholm, Sweden. nese) grill. Meanwhile, Dorfman was seek- Outlining his menus weeks before, ing a new identity for Torino, then Lipar brainstorms details with beverage a casual bar serving snacks. He was manager Ian Redmond and Dorfman. receptive to Lipar's vision for a tast- Lipar determines the available ingredi- ing restaurant and by February, gave ents before finalizing choices. the chef free rein to pursue his ideas. Lipar takes great care with the Lipar said that in spite of Torino's meal's progression, explaining: "We poorly equipped and tiny kitchen, he have an opportunity to tell a story unveiled his first chef's menu to the in our nine courses, to make people public in May, up to nine courses by feel a certain way:' June.The rest is dining history. The year's menus tell diners "what The course titles, some listing key it is like to be here in Michigan, now ingredients, are printed on a sheet. September showcases fresh Per the September menu,"Bento tomatoes and other end-of-summer Box"came first. Approaching the trio ingredients, while dipping into of compartments, head server Dan heartier fall profiles. Lipar likes every McCarthy advised us to start from season for dining, even winter. left to right for maximum enjoy- "We do a lot of canning and pre- ment. The cauliflower custard with serving to have as many Michigan bits of red and green pepper and ingredients as possible," he said. carrots was silky and crunchy. The Under-ripe fruit and vegetables can miso-grilled baby leek provided a be fermented to keep their stasis. nice contrast. Finally, the pork belly Utilizing preservation techniques, sliders were sweetish and savory. "our berry season will go on for an- Continuing, we sampled courses other month of two," he said. named "Golden Beet,"featuring peach, "October is going to be a lot of arugula and curd;"Red Ranger; with fun," said Lipar, dropping menu hints pickled chanterelle, blackberries and about"Matsutake mushrooms and flowers; "Three Sisters," with maize, some ode to deer season ... our beans and squash;"Perch,"with crab treatment of venison. apple, balsamic and cattail pollen; "We want to continue to push our "Veal' with cabbage, broccoli and su- boundaries, making food people are mac;"Tomato,"with balaton (cheese), happy with;' he said. ground cherries and pistachios; No problem. RT "Raspberry,"with vinegar, dulce (ice TORINO cream) and barley; and "Mignardises" 201 E. Nine Mile Road (miniature sweets) and coffee. Ferndale, MI 48220 So many delicious flavors were in (248) 247-1370 this special meal! We felt happily sati- www.torinoferndale.com ated, not stuffed. My foodie cousin $$$$ out of $$$$$ said Torino compares favorably to www.redthreadmagazine.com