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Assaggi Bistro

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7

KOSHER MICHIGAN

KOSHER CERTIFICATION AGENCY

Kosher Michigan announces the kosher certification of
Total Food Package (Spring Lake), Chic Naturals (Maui),
Earthen Jar Vegetarian Cuisine (Ann Arbor) and
& Peteet's Famous Chesecakes (West Bloomfield)

p

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AL FOOD PACKAGE

koshermichigan.com

34 August 2014 I

RED THUM

li

/koshermiclilen

By Esther Allweiss Ingber

he tree-enclosed, courtyard patio
with fountain at Assaggi Bistro
is meant to evoke the simple
pleasures of dining al fresco in the
Tuscany region of Italy — right here
in downtown Ferndale.
When summer breezes softly blow,
it's very pleasant to be in the Tuscan
Garden behind the restaurant. Guests
can dine on Assaggi's innovative Medi-
terranean fare and leisurely sample
beverages amidst pretty potted flow-
ers and a bounty of aromatic herbs,
tomatoes and peppers. Oversized,
laminated photos of wine, food and
landscapes add to the garden theme
for up to 75 diners, or 90 at stand-up
cocktail events. Wednesdays and
Thursday nights are special with Jazz
on the Patio, from 6:30-9:30 p.m.
Should air-conditioning seem more
appealing, by all means request a table
inside Assaggi's two handsome dining
rooms. They feature tone-on-tone dark
carpeting, sand-colored tablecloths
and modernist wall art.
Josie Rotondo-Knapp, whose
parents cooked from scratch in Italy,
and Lebanon native George Gize are
restaurant veterans who share a dining
tradition that values fresh, seasonal
ingredients. The business partners
opened Assaggi Bistro in May 2000.
A dream was realized, said Rotondo-
Knapp, when the fine dining crowd
discovered their flavorful place.
Eighteen months later, Assaggi was ex-
panded into an adjoining storefront on
West Nine Mile Road. Closed Mondays,
lunch is served Tuesday-Friday, with
dinner offered on six nights.
Rotondo-Knapp, a cheerful soul, be-
lieves teamwork with the kitchen's cu-
linary artists is essential to the creative
process at Assaggi. She researches and
develops recipes in her"Josie's Test
Kitchen" before consulting with the
cooking staff
"I tell them what I want to see on the
menu and how I want it to taste,"she
said."They make it happen:'
The collaboration has earned raves
from diners and restaurant critics alike.
The influential national Zagat guide
put Assaggi among Detroit's Top 20
Restaurants in its 2010 edition.
Choosing "best"dishes at this restau-
rant is not easy. I was bowled over by
steamed Prince Edward Island mussels
in an unusual cream sauce. Rotondo-
Knapp said this"hugely popular dish"
consists of anisette, pancetta, shallots,
diced tomatoes, chiffonade basil and
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. A cone
of pornmes frittes (fried potatoes) ac-
companies.
Another tasty appetizer is Meze

T

Plate, offering tabbouleh, hummus,
grape leaves, labne (strained Greek yo-
gurt) and cured olives for two or more.
Handcrafted pizza is made in a
wood-fired oven. Two customer
favorites are Pizza Margarita, with
vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh mozza-
rella and basil, and Pear Pizza, topped
with sliced pears, Cambazola cheese,
walnuts, arugula and sherry gastrique
(sweet-and-sour infused sauce).
Another favorite for me is Almond
Crusted Brie Salad, comprised of mixed
greens, seasonal fresh fruit, toasted
hazelnuts and peach-apricot vinai-
grette. Rotondo-Knapp said this can be
the base for an entree salad by adding
grilled salmon or another protein.The
crusted Brie chunks were delicious —
at once crunchy and creamy.
Under"Le Paste," I noticed house-
made Ricotta Cheese and Spinach
Ravioli in a creamy Pomodoro sauce,
and Potato Parmesan Gnocchi. Lasa-
gna Bolognese will return in the fall. I
liked the simple, rich-tasting Pasta alla
Norcina in a truffle cream sauce. It has
finely diced sauteed Italian sausage,
porcini mushrooms and artisanal
pasta.
The"Innovations" (entree) section
includes Moroccan-spiced Twice-
Cooked Duck Legs, Maple Mustard
Scottish Salmon with warm lentil
salad and kale, and Marinated Grilled
Lamb Chops. Yet the best-seller is
always Chicken Francese, said Roton-
do-Knapp. The dish includes pasta,
charred eggplant, olives and tomatoes
in a Cabernet reduction sauce. Yes,
please.
Befitting the quality food, Assaggi
serves wines purchased by Gize from
vineyards around the world. He also
bakes the restaurant's hot pita rolls.
To conclude the meal, Rotondo-
Knapp recommends Clafouti, a peas-
ant French dessert made with a batter
and fruit. There's also the Mediterra-
nean Baked Banana, wrapped in filo
dough with brown sugar and pista-
chios. Both are served with vanilla ice
cream. RT

ASSAGGI BISTRO
330 W. Nine Mile Road
Ferndale, MI 48220
(248) 584-3499
www.assaggibistro.com
$$$$ out of $$$$$

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