FOOD
FOODIE
The Bird &
The Bread
By Esther Allweiss Ingber
ood and wine books on raised
slanted shelves, with more books
. in a nook to borrow, add warmth
and whimsy to the industrial-style
decor characterizing The Bird &The
Bread in Birmingham.
Restaurateur Kristin Jonna's newest
venture — she also owns wine bars
Vinotecca in Royal Oak and Vinology
in downtown Ann Arbor — is the
city's eagerly anticipated successor to
rowdy South Bar.
The grand opening for Bird/Bread
(as I shall call it) took place March 18
inside a glass-fronted building on
South Old Woodward near Merrill
Street, across from the Birmingham 8
movie theater.
The restaurant-bar's uncommon
name originated with Jonna's father,
Merchant of Vino co-founder John
Jonna. Upon meeting her newborn
twins, now toddlers, Grandpa John
dubbed Maya, a delicate and lively
girl, "The Bird;' while bestowing "The
Bread" as his nickname for Luke, a
solid, easygoing boy.
Bird/Bread's logo features the sil-
houette of a tiny bird riding a bicycle
:4 4
with two baguettes in its basket —
charming! So are the framed sketches
of birds or bread loaves. They decorate
walls mostly in the area with stainless-
topped booths. Guests also may sit on
chairs or barstools in other sections
of the 7,500-square-foot main dining
room. A handsome butcher-block-
topped bar near the restaurant's
entrance offers 24 beers on tap and a
wide variety of wine (see racks behind
a glass wall) and liquor.
Ron & Roman, the noted architec-
ture/design firm in Birmingham, is
behind Bird/Bread's impressive looks,
working with Jonna's husband, Dave
Eifrid, a professional "green" builder, as
contractor. Reused, repurposed and
reclaimed items and materials were
adopted wherever possible, includ-
ing large globe lighting fixtures from
old gymnasiums and several stainless
cocktail squares anchored to black
pipeline stands.
The dining room includes a tent-
enclosed space for private dining. An
open area in back finds cooks wearing
the restaurant's requisite long, striped
aprons working in front of side-by-
side rotisserie and pizza ovens. Bird
and bread again.
Jonna, an English lit major at Michi-
gan State University, worked since age
10 in her family's wine business. She
hired Executive Chef Jim Leonardo to
helm the kitchen at Bird/Bread.
"We are casual, yet smart,
about our food and beverage
service,"Jonna said.
The kid-friendly menu is
also inviting to adults, offering
healthy options for all. Choices
in the fine-dining realm are
available for parties booking
Bird/Bread's 3,000-square-foot
Elm Room banquet complex.
I recently sampled the Beef
Brisket Not-So-Sloppy Joes and
found them to my liking, being
both tangy and sweet. My com-
panion chose Grilled Turkey Wrap. Both
came with a fresh fruit cup. The sand-
wich's turkey breast, and also the diced
chicken in her flavorful Chicken & Orzo
soup, came from the in-house rotis-
serie. Baked Gruyere cheese overflowed
my crock of Onions & Mushrooms soup.
A list of 12 entrees includes Michi-
gan Lamb Shank, Grilled Paddle Bone
Steak, Scottish Salmon and Quinoa
Stuffed Onions. The menu notes that
everything served here is made from
scratch, and "we buy from local farms
whenever we can."
The following day, the same friend
and I shared a delicious Lobster Roll
on soft buns. The mixed lobster-celery
salad had a maple-mustard glaze. It
came with two beer-battered hali-
but filets. We also enjoyed the Spicy
Prawn, a big salad. Large shrimp were
atop spicy (not so much) greens, pine
nuts, goat cheese and roasted grapes,
accompanied by white balsamic
dressing.
Other salad choices are Barley &
Beans, Peas & Carrots, Greens & Grains
and Cabbage & Apples. The Brown
Sugar Cake with fruit compote and
creme anglaise was small, but a per-
fect dessert.
A diner seated near us, originally
from Rhode Island, raved about her pot
of steaming mussels.They are served
all day, along with the pizza. Bird/Bread
pizza ranges from classic styles to some
unusual combinations, such as Hash &
Egg and Liver & Onion.
THE BIRD & THE BREAD
210 S. Old Woodward
Birmingham, MI 48009
(248) 203-6600
www.thebirdandthebread.com
$$$1/2 out of $$$$$
ESTABLISHED 1917
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