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22 January 2014 I

RtD THREAD

Southern Nosh

By Esther Allweiss Ingber

R

estaurateur Patrick Coleman
could have rested on his laurels.
Since 1997, he's enjoyed a bona
fide hit with Beans & Cornbread
Soulful Bistro on Northwestern
Highway, north of 12 Mile Road,
in Southfield. Diners of all ethnici-
ties have embraced the fine-dining
quality of B&C's lightened-up, com-
fort food. According to Coleman, his
restaurant was an early adapter of
cooking without trans-fats.
So, why open a new place, South-
ern Nosh Vegetarian Soul Cafe, in
the same Sunset Strip as B&C? Sim-
ply put, Coleman wanted to offer
even healthier choices.
"I felt a responsibility to start a
restaurant with plant-based cook-
ing because so many diet-related
illnesses plague the black com-
munity, such as obesity, diabetes
and hypertension;' said Coleman,
who also counts many Jewish
customers among his regulars. His
"down-home cooking cafe"focused
on vegetarian fare carries kashrut
certification by Rabbi Jason Miller's
Kosher Michigan.
Coleman noted that,"Southern
cooking carries a perception of be-
ing fatty and high in calories — it's
almost like an oxymoron to say 'veg-
etarian' and 'soul food' in the same
sentence." He said he and execu-
tive chef Keith Hayes are debunk-
ing the myths with their flavorful,
plant-based Southern cuisine. Sixty
percent of the menu is vegan, and
15 percent is gluten-free.
Open since July,"Southern Nosh
is two to three years ahead of the
curve in Southeast Michigan with
what we're doing," said Coleman,
whose restaurant management ex-
perience includes Big Fish in Dear-
born for C.A. Muer Corp. and Forte
in Birmingham for Epoch Restaurant
Group.
What they're "doing" includes
offering soy-wheat protein entrees
that mimic meat equivalents, such
as lightly battered vegetable drum-
sticks that taste like chicken ones
without the bone.
I wasn't missing anything get-
ting a Southern Nosh-style sloppy
Joe, the bun filled with meatless
crumbles in a sweet-tangy barbecue
sauce and garnished with grilled
onions and pickles. My companion's
jerk grilled protein was nicely enliv-
ened by pineapple mango relish. We
could pick two sides from a lengthy
list. My excellent garlic string beans
had pieces of red onion and red
pepper. His bowl of red beans and

rice included nutritious brown rice.
Very good! We ordered extra sides,
both recommended, of grilled
Portobello mushrooms and sweet
potato fries.
On another visit, four of us shared
items. The tilapia was a good size,
and I preferred the pan-seared treat-
ment to the blackened.
We sampled and liked the two
most popular items listed under
small plates. Fried green tomatoes
are thick, cornmeal-battered slices
and just delectable. The satisfying
vegetarian quesadillas are grilled
tortillas filled with meatless strips,
Portobellos, onions and either moz-
zarella or vegan cheese.
As much as I liked the fried okra
and honey-glazed carrots, my
favorite side is collard greens. Who
could have imagined such taste in a
strictly vegetarian dish? I will return
for this again, but skip spicy Cajun
corn on the cob.
Our pleasant, strong server
brought us an array of desserts. Our
favorites were luscious blueberry
pie and creamy sweet potato pie.
Highlighting a couple of items,
Coleman said,"Vegetarian stir-fry is
extremely popular at lunch:' Carrots,
celery, bok choy and red peppers
are in a sweet-and-sour sauce.
For the Swamp Thing, "very
firm tofu is seasoned like fish and
cornmeal dusted, fried, then put on
a bed of vegan rice and smothered
with our award-winning gumbo,
topped with collard greens and
more tofu pieces;' Coleman said.
Some guests get their protein via
a smoothie of the day. The green
smoothie, for example, has spinach,
kale and by request, quinoa.
Coleman said a place like his was
"sorely needed" by African and Jew-
ish Americans alike.
"For the Jewish community, and
particularly the kosher community,
we're providing a much-needed
menu!"
During the recent melding of
the Thanksgiving and Chanukah
holidays, Southern Nosh offered
sweet potato latkes with applesauce
or dairy-free sour cream. There was
a menorah, too. RT

SOUTHERN NOSH
VEGETARIAN SOUL CAFE
29540 Northwestern Hwy.
Southfield, MI 48034
(248) 352-1682
www.southernnosh.com
$$ out of $$$$$

www.redthreadmagazine.com

