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hef Chad Stewart's emphasis
on fresh, clean and delicious
food is why Jewish News read-
ers ought to know Jumps American
Cuisine better. It's got the kind of
gourmet cuisine that food-
ies love in Oakland County.
Thankfully, via 1-696, it's lit-
tle more than a hop, skip and
a jump to reach this pretty,
little restaurant in Grosse
Pointe Farms.
Jumps is situated in a
bustling business/entertain-
ment district called the Hill,
on Kercheval a mile south
of Moross (East Seven Mile
Road). A public parking lot
is around the corner, close to
the Jumps back entrance.
Stewart, raised in Harrison Township,
holds a business degree and took cook-
ing classes at Le Cordon Bleu Paris.
He also trained under Master Chef
Milos Cihelka at the legendary Golden
Mushroom restaurant in Southfield.
Stewart ran the Jumps kitchen for
three years while the original owner
(since 1990) battled cancer. After Art
Bokatzian died, Stewart and his wife
bought Jumps from the man's estate in
May 1994. Mavelle Stewart, a native of
El Salvador, runs the front of the house.
Jumps spent 19 years downstairs
before making the leap to street level
in July 2009, inside the same Kercheval
Avenue building. Chad commissioned
interior designers Diane Woolsey and
D.J. Kennedy to create a space that would
retain the warm, comfortable ambience
so appreciated by Jumps customers. It
works.
I felt immediately relaxed, settling into
what resembles a traditional living room
with dining areas. Earth-toned carpeting
is underfoot and soft symphonic music
plays. Gold and off-white are primary
colors, with khaki green and red added
to the mix, especially in upholstered,
floral-patterned, banquette seating. Walls
are covered with a cork-colored, textured
paper. French wine posters, Tuscany
scenes and mirrors provide more visual
interest.
Fine linens drape the tables each
evening and the lights are dimmed, but
Stewart wants everyone to know that
Jumps remains a casual spot where
"sports jackets or shorts" are welcome.
Possessing a full Class C liquor license,
Jumps is open 8 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
except Monday, but closes Sunday at 2.
From six stools at the curved back
counter, guests can see the care and
detail that goes into every meal. The
Jumps team includes Tribute restaurant
veteran Andrew Shipley, the chef de
cuisine, and Stewart's stepson
Brandon Kokoszki, a dessert
specialist.
"Our food is well prepared
and made from scratch:'
Stewart said. In season, many
of the ingredients come from
farms in Macomb County.
At lunch recently, I took
my server's suggestion and
ordered pecan-crusted chick-
en from the daily printed
menu. Slices of evenly bat-
tered grilled chicken arrived
atop spring greens, roasted
asparagus, tomato confit, red onion,
bacon and pumpernickel croutons,
Maytag bleu cheese dressing on the side.
I relished every bite.
My meal began with clam chow-
der, the New England variety. Celery,
onions, potatoes and plenty of clams
were blended into a nicely smoky broth.
Sweet and spicy red bean and white
chicken chili were other soup choices
that day, along with sauteed lake perch
sandwich and spicy chicken mostaccioli,
and a quiche of Italian sausage, red
onion, tomato, basil and mozzarella.
For dessert, I had to try apple,
almond and dried cherry bread pudding
in a bourbon custard. It was heavenly,
each ingredient distinct, and so large
that I brought half of it home.
"Some say my portions are too big;
said a smiling Stewart. He likes indulg-
ing guests.
The 11 dinner entrees have different
accompaniments, plus soup or salad
and warm rolls. For example, Stewart
said the popular cedar plank salmon
includes lemongrass rice pilaf, braised
kale and aromatic coconut sauce. More
menu favorites are pecan-crusted white-
fish and braised beef short ribs. Stuffed
beef wontons with shitake mushrooms
and seared sea scallops are two favorite
appetizers.
Check out the creative, seasonal spe-
cialties on Jumps' new spring menu.
❑
Jumps American Cuisine
63 Kercheval
Grosse Pointe Farms, MI 48236
(313) 882-9555
www.jumpsrestaurant.com
$$$ out of $$$$$