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18

February 14 • 2013

JIM

A

s if selling the most scrump-
tious scones around wasn't
enough, Elwin Greenwald
recently earned bragging rights for his
chicken soup, too. On Jan.
27, the heimish propri-
etor of Elwin & Co. won
"People's Choice — Best
Chicken Soup" in the profes-
sional division of Temple
Shir Shalom's third annual
Chicken Soup Cook-off in
West Bloomfield.
Greenwald's trophy with
a golden chicken on top
— "It's adorable," he says —
resides at his niche bakery
in Berkley. Elwin & Co.,
sporting a blue awning, is
next door to Chet's Rent-All on Coolidge
Highway and across from Bagger Dave's.
When it comes to Greenwald's very
rich-tasting soup, "the trick is to make a
real chicken stock" He described the pro-
cess to me, including which ingredients
and spices go into his stockpot. Paprika is
a given because of his
Hungarian heritage.
Greenwald, a Cass
Tech graduate, earned
a graphic arts degree
at College for Creative
Studies. His future
career was shaped
Elwin
while in Annecy,
Greenwald
located in the foothills
of the French Alps.
He studied with Chef Madeleine
Kamman and apprenticed nearby at
auberge restaurant. Greenwald learned to
combine "French techniques with a Jewish
way of cooking; i.e., the cuisine he grew
up with.
Returning after six months to the
fine-dining Van Dyke Place, Greenwald
had earned a higher chef's position.
Ten years later, in fall 1990, Greenwald
left to open Elwin's to Go on Lafayette
Street, one of the first spots in Royal
Oak with an outdoor cafe.
He first focused on making scones at
the request of chocolatier Gayle Harte, his
first wholesale customer.
"The former Coffee Exchange began
buying my scones at Gayle's Chocolates to
go with their coffee," says Greenwald.
Greenwald's business has always been
a family affair. Chief cheerleader Dale
Thayer, his partner of 36 years, laid the
first store's tiled floor; his invaluable sister
Judy Greenwald has handled bookkeeping

and counter sales for nearly 12 years; and
their widowed mother Ruth Greenwald,
who died at age 91 last November, helped
from the start.
"She worked every single
day till she got sick:' says
Greenwald, who always tried
out his Workmen's Circle
Yiddish lessons with her.
With business "bursting at
the seams," the renamed Elwin
& Co. bought its building in
Berkley. Greenwald thanks God
for their success and also "our
delicious food, hard work, hav-
ing my mother and sister, and
hiring good employees:'
The six include manager
Tony Anthony, who started as
a dishwasher, "and can run the whole
place if we're away:' says Greenwald.
Deanna Knibbs, a JARC client, cleans up
and helps with cooking.
"No one can scoop cookies as fast as
she can," he says. "I'm crazy about her;
she likes my corny jokes:'
Jay Rose, a key 20-year employee,
makes dough for the scones and cookies.
"Our fancy-shmancy chocolate cherry
cookie is like a chocolate-dipped cherry
mixed into a cookie Greenwald says.
Elwin & Co. offers more than 20
varieties of scones, including fat-free.
Unlike other scones, these aren't too
dry. Among the sweet, Raspberry White
Chocolate is the favorite "hands down:'
Among the savory, Spinach and Cheddar
is No. 1, though Greenwald prefers
Onion Poppy Seed.
Upscale markets carry his scones, and
Elwin & Co. can also put them into custom
food gift baskets or bereavement trays.
Enhancing his menu, Greenwald pre-
pares and freezes batches of chili, soups,
stews, fresh poached salmon patties,
chicken potpie and more for carryout.
Additionally, he's taught cooking classes
in the community and catered Shabbat
dinners at his and Thayer's synagogue,
Congregation Shir Tikvah in Troy.
Store hours are 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
weekdays, 8:30 to 2 p.m. Saturday.

❑

Elwin & Co.

2971 Coolidge Hwy.
Berkley, MI 48072
(248) 547-8846
www.elwinandco.com
$ 1 /2 out of $$$$$

