FOOD
FOODIE
Cafe Muse
By Esther Aliweiss Ingber
e try to reinvent ourselves
every few years," said Greg
Reyner, executive chef and
co-owner with marketing specialist
David Smith of adorable Café Muse in
Royal Oak.
Clearly, the partners don't adhere to
the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school
of thought.
The ambitious pair opened in March
2006 with a 22-seat operation across
Washington Street. Gaining a well-de-
served reputation as one of the city's
best spots for breakfast and lunch —
offered till 3 p.m. seven days a week
— necessitated Café Muse's move less
than three years later to its current,
roomier site. The partners designed
the casual, comfortable European-style
bistro boasting an original tin ceiling.
About 75 diners can be accommo-
dated.
More change came when Café Muse
obtained a liquor license in 2010 and
added dinner service, currently 5-10
p.m.Tuesday-Saturday. Now the part-
ners are a few weeks into the opening
of their bar expansion next door. It
exudes a minimalist European chic, not
adorability, for drinkers who enjoy an
evening out. The café's many choices
should satisfy coffee lovers, too.
"We're not just'the brunch place;
Reyner stressed."We want people to
realize we're open for dinner and do
serve alcohol:'
Boasting more than 200 selections
of wine, Café Muse earned Wine Spec-
tator magazine's Award of Excellence
both this year and last. Guests also
have their choice of 60 Michigan craft
beers, including Jolly Pumpkin from
Dexter.
"I don't think anyone else in Royal
Oak has craft cocktails to the extent
that we're doing," he added. Specialties
include Boulevardier (sweet Vermouth,
Compari liquor and bourbon) and Dark
and Stormy (ginger beer and spiced
rum over ice with twist of lime). The
bar side offers "happy hour," including
12 appetizing small plates, 5-7 p.m.
Tuesday-Friday.
A graduate of Culinary and Hos-
pitality Institute of Chicago, Chef
Reyner started his career in catering.
His recipes are inspired by food he's
enjoyed in great restaurants around
the world. Reyner uses fresh, locally
produced and organic ingredients as
often as possible and lists local farm
suppliers on the dinner menu.
W
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40 November 2012 I
up THREAD
Brad Walters of West Bloomfield, din-
ing with wife, Carol, said that"Oprah
[Winfrey] was dead-on"for featuring
the Café Muse grilled cheese sandwich
on her former talk show. Composed of
havarti, fontina and fresh mozzarella
cheeses, with tomato, basil and honey,
the sandwich merited a mention in
Esquire Magazine in 2008. That at-
tracted the attention of Oprah BFF
Gayle King, who had a television crew
visit Café Muse for Oprah's "Sandwich
Showdown." Oprah gave the grilled
cheese a "57 her highest rating.
Weekly specials supplement regular
offerings at Café Muse. Among the
breakfast "sweet" selections for fall is
Challah French Toast with Cinnamon,
Pumpkin-Spiced Mascarpone and Can-
died Pecans. Carol Walters tried Ricotta
and Lemon Pancakes, pronouncing
them, "Very light:1 1 agreed from experi-
ence when Reyner called Exotic Mush-
room Scramble with Boursin cheese
and truffle oil the favorite "savory"
choice of customers at breakfast.
I recently sampled healthy and
smoothly satisfying Curried Celery
Apple soup. My Hangar Steak Sand-
wich on a toasted sourdough bun was
very juicy. Accompanying it was lightly
dressed couscous mixed with diced
pumpkin, green apple and cranberry.
Delicious!
Diner Marcy Abramson of South-
field said, "They gave me a lot" of the
warm goat cheese and pears atop
her organic greens. The house-made
balsamic vinaigrette provided a perky
counterpoint.
Miles McVee is chef de cuisine at
dinner, when short ribs are espe-
cially popular.The entrée comes with
truffled white bean puree, roasted
garlic, spinach and crispy shallots. Ahi
tuna and grapefruit-marinated tofu are
more evening choices. Customers ask
Reyner to bring back his slow-braised
rabbit entree.
Christian Stachel, director of wine
and spirits, can help with selections.
RSVP now for a five-course wine din-
ner on Nov. 7. It's $75 before tax and
gratuity.
Café Muse
418 S. Washington
Royal Oak, MI 48067
(248) 544-4749
www.cafemuseroyal.com
$$$ out of $$$$$
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