just like when entering a Hindu temple.
Here we saw the most colorful of interiors:
blue tiles from China, silver and brass
chandeliers from Belgium, and a multitude
of colorful oil lamps. The Holy Ark, made
by Kerala wood carvers, houses the famous
copper plates, where Raja's guarantee of all
freedoms for the Cochin Jews is written.
Though without a rabbi, a few remaining
congregants continue to pray together every
Shabbat and on holidays. The synagogue
is adjacent to the Krishna Temple and, as
we are told, one might hear the chanting
from the Temple during the prayers at the
synagogue. How uniquely Indian, I think:
peacefully and harmoniously, two ancient
civilizations, with their languages and reli-
gions blending together...
Our final visit in Cochin was to the grave
of an old sage. Small houses surround the
only remaining grave memorial that is
honored by Muslims, Hindu and Christians.
They come to pray, bring their grievances
and ask for favors from an ancient Jewish
saint, who they say has divine powers. As
translated from Hebrew into English by
Professor Hanock Ben-Yami, the sign reads:
"... the abundance of the light of his wis-
dom ("Torah") shines on all communities
... let his soul be in the bundle of the liv-
ing, his rights will protect us, Amen ..."
The truth about the Jews of India is that
they are both fully Jewish and, at the same
time, fully Indian. How did they manage
that? I found the best answer in the writing
of Nathan Katz, a world authority on Jewish
communities in India. Katz maintains that
Indian Jews formed their historic identity
based on myths and legends that they con-
tinue to tell about themselves. These stories
relate events that may not be purely factual,
but they serve to organize people's percep-
tions into meaningful experiences. Facts are
not relevant when we deal with identity, he
says. It is the thousand-years-old narrative
that creates that identity.
Our trip to India gave us more cultural
and spiritual treasures than we could have
imgagined. It affirmed our original belief:
India indeed proved to be the place for self-
discovery and personal growth. I kindly
challenge you to prove it for yourself. E

Top: The best kept secret of Delhi:

Judah Hyam Synagogue is hidden right

near the tomb of a Muslim emperor

Middle: Magen David Synagogue in

Mumbai. This elegant blue building

was erected in 1861 by David Sasson,

a patriarch of the wealthiest of the

Baghdadi Jewish families.

Bottom: Though Paradesi Synagogue of

Cochin was built in the 16th century by

"foreigners" ("paradesi"), it stands as

a symbol of the 2,500 year-old Jewish

community.

Spain: A
Destination With
Jewish Flare

B

6ripiri4r;),

- -

-

-

arcelona is a city rich
At that time, the community
with Jewish history that was also in spiritual bloom
dates back more than
with religious leaders like
1,700 years. When
Rabbi Shlomo ben
exactly the first Jews
Aderet, who came
arrived to Spain is
from Barcelona, and
hard to say. Some
Nachmanides (the
legends talk of two
founder of the first
sons of the Queen
Kabbalah school),
of Sheba (King
who came from a
Solomon's wife)
neighboring city
having founded two
called Girona.
cities in Spain. Also,
Simultaneously,
a village in the far
Christian
sects like
Adi Mahler
western part of Spain
the Dominicans saw
Speci al to the
called Noia claims
it as their purpose
Jewis h News
that it was founded
to convert Jews to
by the grandchild of
Christianity. They
Noah.
started to pressure
If we stick to more histori-
and provoke the locals against
cal facts, we know that the first
the Jews, and tragically, their
evidence of Jewish presence
incitement won out.
is from around the third cen-
In 1391 (101 years before the
tury BCE. In the year 70 CE, the
official expulsion of the Jews),
Second Temple was destroyed
there was a pogrom against the
and a large scale Diaspora
Jews of Barcelona, and most of
began. Jews first left to existing
the population was either forced
Jewish communities in places
to convert or die.
like Turkey
Jews only
and Egypt, but
started to return
eventually they
to Barcelona
spread to more
about 100 years
remote places
ago. These days,
such as Spain.
the community
Under the
is about 1,000
Romans, the
families strong.
Jewish com-
Today,
munity in
you can visit
Barcelona was
Barcelona's old-
relatively small
est synagogue,
and not much
Sinagoga Mayor
evidence of it
Barcelona, and
has been found. A street in B arcelona's
stroll through
But toward the
narrow alleys
Jewish quart er where
ninth century,
dating from
you'll find th e synagogue
with the birth
the Middle
of the Catalan
Ages to arrive
empire, there was a growth
at the Jewish Quarter's unique
in the Jewish population as
mikveh. The famous Jewish
well as a rise in their societal
Alchemist house, (Centro
importance. The Catalan empire Interpetacion Del Call), and,
based its economy on trade in
of course, what's left from the
the Mediterranean, in which
Roman Wall.
the Jews played a vital role.
Many Jews were skillful traders
Adi Mahler is a graduate of Tel Aviv
with communities all around
University who works for Barcelona
the Mediterranean. They helped Dreaming. Previously, he worked
tremendously in the growth
as a tour guide in the museum of
of the empire. So much so that
Barcelona's old synagogue. For
in the 13th century, the Jewish
more information on planning a
population of Barcelona rose to
private Jewish tour of Barcelona,
1,000 families, nearly 15 percent logon to www.barcelonadreaming.
of its total population.
com.

June 14

2012

79