Sea-Farin' Dream

Detroit Fish Market brings memories of great dishes.

W

hen it opened in January, the
connotation by many was
with wrongful thinking ...
Their thought was that suave, debonair
restaurateur Frank Taylor's newest ven-
ture was more or less a sea-farin' dining
spot that bordered mainly on a soul food
theme.
It became very obvious that those in
the wrong had never been to Detroit Fish
Market in the new Paradise Valley of
Harmonie Park on Randolph, a block east
of Broadway, Detroit.
This dream by Frank, among the best-
dressed men in the cuisine industry,
stemmed back to 1997 when he was food
and beverage director at a Doubletree
Hotel in Pittsburgh where he created the
Pittsburgh Fish Market that still stands
today in that city ... Since moving to
Michigan with wife Carolyn Clifford,
IN-XYZ-TV newscaster, and going into the
restaurant ownership field, it was con-
tinually on his mind to open a seafood
restaurant here that would out-distance
many of the best.
The former location of Intermezzo is
beyond recognition, with its dining room
centered by four large booths shaped
like lemon wedges (a truly novel idea for
a seafood house), five privacy enclosed
booths with open or drawn curtains, and
a separate lounge bar where folks may
also dine.
But first and foremost Frank needed a
good, solid executive chef and general man-
ager with deft seafood dining knowledge.
In Executive Chef Leonardo Vulagi,
he chose the likes of a kitchen know-
how gent who could come up with what
is an ultra-good seafood menu, which
experience he mastered at the Culinary
Institute of America (C.I.A.), from where
Leonardo graduated ... Then came his

helping open Andiamo Italia in
Warren, Joe Vicari's first in the
highly regarded chain, followed
by stints at the former Larco's
Chophouse in Troy, Baci Abacci
in Pontiac and Sangria, Royal
Oak.
For his general manager,
Frank needed to look no further
than his excellent selection of
Theodore Oresky, former g.m.
at Bravo Vie Bistro in Troy's
Somerset Collection ... Oresky's
restaurant knowledge is a large asset.
Chef Leonardo's culinary expertise is
highly exemplified with his presentation
of the great Joe Muer's seafood favorite,
crabmeat-stuffed flounder, which is served
with a lemon beurre blanc sauce and
sauteed spinach ... Naturally', this would
also become a big favorite at Detroit Fish
Market ... His innovative abilities are
truly shown by the treatment of Maryland
crab cakes ... Who would have dreamed
that the use of ginger and lemon pepper
would bring out such a great taste and
such wanted moist firmness? ... Even
Leonardo's simple macaroni and cheese
is different, with his use of six different
cheeses and chunks of lobster meat ...
And the fine preparations like Leonardo's
original version of Veal Palomino, along
with dishes not on the menu that include
grilled salmon with sun-dried cherries
barbecue sauce, lobster B.L.T. sandwich,
blackened catfish Oscar, etc.... His pre-
sentation of fried lobster (two 4-ounce
tails on a skewer) is choice ... Fried
lobster had been originated by Frank's co-
partner, Chef Jerry Nottage, when Taylor
first opened Sweet Georgia Brown in
Detroit ... Nonage is now also executive
corporate chef with Frank.
While gathering honors at C.I.A., one of

Weekend
Fish Plate for 2

• Lox, White Fish Salad Plate
• Bagel & Cream cheese
• Scrambled Eggs $
• Hash Browns
• Sour Cream Coffee Cake

With the purchase of 2 Beverages
Not valid with any other offer

Sat & Sun 10-2

INEYAR S

DELI • CAFE • CATERING

the very strict requisites was
the preparation of Chilean
sea bass ... It is today
not only among the most
popular items at Detroit Fish
Market, but also exactly as
Leonardo prepared it at the
Culinary Institute.
DFM is a seven-day-a-
week operation for lunch
and dinner ... Monday-
Thursday, 11:30-10; Friday
and Saturday, 11:30-mid-
night; Sunday, noon-10.
Not since Joe Muer was satisfying so
many palates on Gratiot some years back
has Detroit seen another so well-diversi-
fied seafood restaurant as Detroit Fish
Market ... That one of its favorite restau-
rateurs and native sons should be at the
helm is a huge pride.
AFTER OPENING February, 2008, fol-
lowing seven other restaurants that closed
at the seemingly ill-fated site on Orchard
Lake Road and Pontiac Trail in Orchard
Lake Village... Italia Fresca will move
this week ... On Monday, Aug. 10, the
public will be welcomed to owner/chef
Sam Sharkas' Italia Fresca's new loca-
tion, Orchard Lake Road between Cass
Lake Road and Middlebelt, Sylvan Lake
... Monday-Thursday, 11:30-10; Friday,
11:30-midnight; Saturday, 2-midnight;
Sunday, 2-9.
FREE FOR ALL Dept. ... No cost din-
ner with Jewish News coupon and another
dinner at Steve's Deli, Telegraph at Maple,
Bloomfield Plaza, Bloomfield Township.
GOOD SERVER Dept. ... Alex
Chaben at Buddy's Pizza, Northwestern,
Farmington Hills ... Polite, energetic
and a likeable personality to go with his
efficiency ... Alex, a student at Michigan
State University, and younger brother

-

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MATZAH BREI, ALONG WITH A

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ORDER ONLINE www.VineyardDeli.com

David, in the Buddy's Farmington Hills
carry-out, where Alex also started, are the
sons of community-ites Kerry and Cheryl
Chaben and the great grandsons of Abe
Chaben, owner years ago of Uncle Abe's
Tavern on Seward, Detroit.
NUMEROUS EATERIES continue to
call themselves family restaurants ...
However, they lack one of the necessi-
ties for being considered such style of
restaurant ... Having a children's menu
separate or as part of the regular bill of
fare is essential.
MAIL DEPT.... "While we in Los
Angeles have our share of excellent
kosher restaurants, many people back in
the Midwest may not know that when
traveling anywhere in the United States
and wanting kosher food, L.A.-based
Kosher on Wheels can be called. It is the
delivery arm of the wonderful Judy's La
Petite restaurant here on North La Brea
Avenue. Recently, my good friends from
Southfield, where I am from, orthopedic
surgeon Dr. Jerry Rosenberg and his wife
Helene, attended a medical conference
near Squaw Valley in northern California,
and called to ask me about getting kosher
food sent to their resort. I gave them
Kosher on Wheels' information and they
couldn't have been more pleased with the
results. Good quality food at reasonable
prices, wide variety of sandwiches and
main courses, solid packaging keeping
all items fresh and ready to be eaten or
warmed up. Its menu online is y ■ ,--w-w.
kosheronwheels.com , but then call ahead
as orders are only taken over the phone."
... Hershel Goulson
CONGRATS ... To Maggie Asmar on
her birthday. _7

Danny's e-mail address is

dannyraskin@sbcglobal.net .

FREE

Sour Cream

with our Premium
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Not valid Vittil any other offer • Minimum of 10

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Best
est Jewish Deli!

August 6 • 2009

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