MAINSTREETS Royal Oak I n this fickle place we call Metro Detroit, few things are as constant as the popularity of downtown Royal Oak as a place for supping and shopping, preening and mingling, and otherwise experiencing one of the few legitimate slices of urban fabric in the region. And, as the neighborhood continues its evolution from low-rise to high, what with soft-loft buildings and condominium towers creating a true skyline for the first time, it's only natural, then, that what's happening closer to the ground is also evolving, as new shops and restaurants mingle effortlessly with longtime favorites. DINING Whether craving a nosh or favoring some- thing a little more substantial, the dining scene in Royal Oak poses one great chal- lenge: There are so many choices. The inde- cisive have been warned. On the east side of Main Street, just south of 11 Mile, Beirut Palace (105 S. Main, 248- 399-4600) tempts with flavors of the Levant, as well as the conviviality of sharing a post- meal water pipe with friends on its popular patio. Consider this block of Main Street a mod- ern Silk Road as you trade your tabbouleh for tempura and the like at Katana Nu- Asian Steakhouse (111 S. Main, 248-591- 9900) where the tableside chefs entertain diners with spatula trickery, or sushi at Little Tree (107 S. Main, 248-586-0994). Also calling this swath of Main Street home is the come-as-you-are Comet Burgers (207 S. Main, 248-414-4567) for "sliders:' and the urbane ambiance of Andiamo Osteria (129 S. Main, 248-582- 9300). Across the street, the barbecue and live entertainment at Memphis Smoke (100 S. Main, 248-543-4300) still draws large crowds, while the vibe is much more sooth- ing next door at Bean and Leaf (106 S. Main, 248-582-0518), where the coffee and tea hit the spot every time. Rounding out the mix, Monterrey Cantina (312 S. Main, 248-545-1940) spices things up with its upbeat approach to south- of-the-border cuisine, and Tom's Oyster Bar (318 S. Main, 248-541-1186) constantly satis- fies with its daily fresh catch and raw bar. Book-ending Main Street on the south is a trio of restaurants similar in spirit but diver- gent in taste. The twice-fried frites, creamiest of creamy macaroni and cheese, steamed mussels and other toothsome fare, as well rustically modern decor at Bastone (419 S. Main, 248-544-6250) was inspired by the classic Belgian brasserie. Sharing a roof and housemade beers, the adjacent Café Habana (421 S. Main, 248- 544-6225) offers an authentic taste of forbid- den Cuba. The pressed ham sandwiches are a must, as is the addictive chimichurri sauce, washed down with a cold Cervasa: house- made blond ale with chili pepper and lime. And flanking Bastone on the north is the sophisticatedly appointed wine bar Vinotecca (417 S. Main, 248-544-6256). Indeed, as Main Street's "restaurant row" attracts most of the crowds, nearby streets shouldn't be ignored. A few blocks west finds the friendly Lily's Seafood (410 S. Washington, 248-591-5459), and authentic tapas at Sangria (401 S. Lafayette, 248-543- 1964), where the namesake drink is a must. Finally, when that age-old Italian-versus- Chinese debate reaches a stalemate, try the comfortable D'Amato's (222 S. Sherman, 248-584-7400) or longtime downtown anchor Peking House (212 S. Washington, 248-545-2700). Or agree to disagree and opt for food and drinks at Small Plates (310 S. Main, 248-543-3300), where the chefs and bartenders infuse the flavors of Asia, Europe and all points in between with its namesake "small plates" made specifically for shar- ing, brick-oven pizzas, salads and signature drinks. Coffee on the go is hardly the way to start the day. Rather, make time to tuck into the Parisian-inspired gem Café Muse (317 S. Washington, 248-544-4749), where the orange juice is fresh-squeezed and the tempting fare is proof enough that break- fast is the most important meal of the day. Although fans of its flavorful lunches will put up a strong argument. Those with any eye to aesthetics will enjoy the stylistically sophisticated, but far from stuffy Oak City Grille (212 W. Sixth, 248- 556-0947) and Town Tavern (116 W. Fourth, 248-544-7300). Outside the downtown core, and as differ- ent in food philosophy to one another as day is to night, stand the vanguard of vegetarian cuisine in Metro Detroit, Inn Season Café (500 E. Fourth, 248-547-7916), and a couple of spots vying for the "best ribs in town" crown: Oxford Inn (1214 S. Main, 248-543- 5619) and Vmsetta Grill (28028 Woodward, 248-543-2626). And if a pick-me-up is in order morning, noon, or night, a handful of spots are sure to fit any mood: the cozy Café du Marquis (204 Fifth, 248-398-4169) with its curiously curated, yet lovingly mismatched chairs, the Asian-inspired Goldfish Tea House (117 W Fourth, 248-541-5252) — the owners say they "fell in love with tea" while living in Beijing — offering premium Chinese loose-leaf teas and tea accessories, and the Lilliputian-sized Tasi Juice Bar (204 W. Fourth, 248-336-9043). Finally, walk off a big meal and cure a sweet tooth at the same time with a stop for ice cream at Chicago-bred Oberweis Ice Cream & Dairy Store (304 N. Main, 248- 336-0303); the oddly paired but surprisingly tasty popcorn and candy combinations from Dale & Thomas Popcorn Company (304 S. Main, 248-658-4000); or the picture-perfect pastries at Astoria Pastry Shop (320 S. Main St., 248-582-8040). SHOPPING The high concentration of independent merchants in downtown Royal Oak means the cookie-cutter styles found elsewhere in town are, for the most part, an extinct breed in these parts. For starters, there's Funky 7 (411 S. Main, 248-398-6700) with its offbeat T- shirts, the junior-focused Pitaya (211 S. Main, 248-545-6666), the denim-centric Chaud Jeans (414 S. Washington, 248- 399-3980), and of-the-moment retailer American Apparel (405 S. Washington, 248-547-1904) for sublimely simple and comfortable, logo-free American-made T- shirts and casual wear. Keep an eye out, too, for Project 3 (412 S. Washington, 248-543-8078) for men's ROYAL OAK ON PAGE B26 main October 23 • 2008 B25