MAINSTREETS
Downtown Detroit
t doesn't get more "main" than
Woodward Avenue, the unofficial
dividing line separating east from
west.
And while other roads may carry more
traffic, the connection to Woodward is
inescapable. Lined with sepia-toned mem-
ories, to be sure, of streetcars, stores and
shoppers galore, an ongoing revitalization
is steadily coaxing Woodward out of its
long slumber.
A new shop here. A spiffy restaurant
there. And now, increasingly, a place to call
home. The transition of Detroit's central
artery — and its side streets — is not to
be missed from its Detroit River roots, up
past the Boulevard and beyond.
DINING/NIGHTLIFE
You might be inclined to do a double-take
as you motor north from the river. After
all, the view — gleaming new office tow-
ers, handsome light posts, the sculpture
and shooting fountain in Campus Martius
park, the crowds — is hardly the dusty
image of only a few years ago.
But better to keep your eyes on the road
and take in the sights from your perch at
Au Bon Pain (in Campus Martius, 800
Woodward, 313-226-6600). Savor a rich
cup of coffee and fresh baked sweet roll in
the morning, and come back at lunch for a
savory salad or two-fisted sandwich. Make
sure to grab a seat outside at one of the
café tables or on the ledge of the fountain.
A meal never tasted so good. -
Flanking the park on its northern edge,
the post-modern Compuware Building
houses a range of eateries, including
the famous, neon-clad Hard Rock Café
(45 Monroe, 313-964-7625) and The
Woodward (1040 Woodward, 313-964-
4444), where foodies rave about its bistro-
style fare and history buffs give kudos to
its decor, which reflects the original street
layout of Woodward from 1807.
Also calling Compuware home is an
outpost of off-beat Ben & Jerry's (1012
Woodward, 313-964-2185), where those
insistent cravings for Chunky Monkey or
Cherry Garcia can be soothed any day of
the week.
And if you're dining with a friend, meet
him or her "under the clock at Kern's!'
Well, sort of. You see, the restored piece of
Detroit retailing history, where generations
of Detroiters never missed a date, sits at
street level in front of The Woodward,
rather than over the mezzanine of J. L.
B16
October 23 • 2008
RES T S
Hudson's worthy competitor. But
nonetheless, a new generation of
downtowner is adopting this icon
as their own.
On the avenue's western flank,
the Detroit Breakfast House and
Grille @ Merchant's Row (1241
Woodward, 313-961-1115) will
make the most dedicated night
owl eager for the sun to rise. Even
on the cloudiest of days, the sunny
demeanor of the staff and a back-
drop of almost-glowing miniature
colored tiles infuse the dining
room with vibrancy. That the
breakfast entrees are first rate only
adds to a perfect morning.
And a block away, the "green-
ing" of Detroit continues with the
healthy-yet-satisfying mealtime
options from Salad Creations
(1043 Woodward, 313-963-5800).
On the south side of the park is
the very citified Enoteca Campo
Marzio (660 Woodward, 313-
784-9783), where more than 100
wines from around the world
complement a menu devoted to
"flights" of cheese — served with
crusty bread, olives or fig spread
— chocolates and caramelized
fruits, bruschetta and scacciatta (flat
grilled sandwiches).
For sandwiches with a more familiar
provenance, nothing compares to the
hearty, fresh-made favorites from Eph's
Downtown Detroit (608 Woodward, 313-
964-4511), the quirky "joint" first made
famous in Corktown.
Detroit's always been a shot-and-a-
beer kind of town, and a trio of firmly
rooted, some might even argue historic,
places carry on this tradition: the eclectic
Sweetwater Tavern (400 E. Congress, 313-
962-2210), the very Irish Old Shillelagh
(349 Monroe, 313-964-0007), and the
German beer garden-styled Jacoby's (642
Brush, 313-962-7067), which bills itself as
the oldest saloon and restaurant in down-
town Detroit.
Also in the immediate neighbor-
hood, but not directly on Woodward, are
a host of restaurants — new concepts
and old favorites — that prove Detroit
is a great food town. The list is long and
includes the traditional Cuban tastes from
Vmcente's (1250 Library, 313-962-8800)
and the nibble-and-nosh concept at the
stylish Small Plates (1521 Broadway, 313-
diamond in the rough, the Atlas
Global Bistro (3111 Woodward,
313-831-2241) truly shines
with its sunlit dining room and
worldly" specialties for break-
fast, lunch and dinner.
In the Midtown/Wayne State
area, legendary haunts like
Mario's (4222 Second, 313-832-
1616) and the recently revamped
Whitney (4421 Woodward,
313-832-5700) still draw the
crowds with their classic Italian
and Continental specialties,
respectively, while the scene is a
little more casual, in both atmo-
sphere and cooking style, at the
always popular Union Street
(4145 Woodward, 313-831-3965),
where the Anti Pasta Salad is
a must, and the industrial chic
Majestic (4120 Woodward, 313-
833-9700) for Mediterranean-
infused dishes.
Other well-known kitchens in
these parts include Traffic Jam
& Snug (511 W. Canfield, 313-
831-9470) with its own in-house
bakery, microbrewery and dairy,
and the artsy — it touts itself as
Detroit's Alternative Restaurant
and Art Gallery — Cass Cafe (4620 Cass,
313-831-1400).
A detour on Michigan Avenue, between
the Lodge and the derelict Michigan
Central Depot, will take you past the
legendary Lager House (1254 Michigan,
313-961-4668); the always crowded, very
cool, ever delicious Slow's Bar BQ (2138
Michigan, 313-962-9828); and newcomer
Mercury Coffee Bar (2163 Michigan,
313-496-4000), where they pour more
than coffee and serve more than biscotti.
In fact, contemporary-styled, compact
Mercury has a first floor bakery and
serves sandwiches and pastries made
from Detroit-grown ingredients.
Back on Woodward, if Asian food calls,
particularly sushi, the new Wasabi (15 E.
Kirby, 313-872-7275) in the Park Shelton
should sate your appetite, as will the sleek
Oslo (1456 Woodward, 313-962-7200).
One spot not to be missed, Good Girls
Go To Paris (2 John R, 313-964-2023),
is tucked behind Oslo and is fast becom-
ing known for its crepes, either savory or
sweet. There's no seating — it's not even
50 square feet — rather order from the
walk-up window and wait patiently for a
((
963-0497), to classic "big city" fare at the
clubby, aptly named Caucus Club (150 W.
Congress, 313-965-4970).
There's also the well-appointed, con-
tinental Opus One (565 E. Lamed, 313-
961-6862), and the causal, colorful Sweet
Lorraine's (333 E. Jefferson, 313-223-
3933), while the landmark Renaissance
Center is home to Andiamo Riverfront
(400 Renaissance Center, 313-567-6700),
Seldom Blues (400 Renaissance Center,
313-567-7301), where an innovative menu
complements the luscious river view and
stellar live-jazz performances, and Coach
Insignia (100 Renaissance Center, 313-
567-2622), floating above the city on the
71st floor of the Marriott.
North of Grand Circus Park, the glori-
ous Fox Theatre anchors the appropriately
dubbed Foxtown. And ifs here, flank-
ing the Art Deco movie palace, where
Da Edoardo's Foxtown Grille (2211
Woodward, 313-471-3500) serves contem-
porary and traditional Italian specialties,
and the '50s-inspired Johnny Rocket's
(2239 Woodward, 313-471-3446) dishes
up thick malts and juicy burgers.
The hardscrabble neighborhood to the
north shouldn't be overlooked, as a true