'World Cultivating Her Roots Holocaust survivors' relative visits Poland with eyes wide open. Suzy Hagstrom Special to the Jewish News Chmielnik, Poland F or Arlene Garfinkel Speiser, the child and niece of Jewish Holocaust survivors, Poland rep- resents contradiction in the extreme: ter- ror and tentative hope, death and renewal. The Detroit native and Farmington Hills resident anticipated seeing the town where her late father, Nathan Garfinkel, was born. She also dreaded beholding the family tree so cruelly truncated by World War II's genocide. Speiser, who operates a market research company in Southfield, has traveled to Chmielnik, Poland, twice: once with her father in 1990 and this summer with her Aunt Helen Garfinkel Greenspan of Orlando. In 1990, Speiser found the Jewish cem- etery in ruins and its broken tombstones paving Chmielnik's sidewalks. Spray- painted swastikas marred the synagogue. She heard people mutter, "Go home, Jews." In June, Speiser returned to witness the Jewish cemetery partially restored and the synagogue in early stages of renova- tion. Chmielnik's mayor kissed her hand at ceremonies honoring five Holocaust survivors. "This is amazing;' Speiser said while accompanying her aunt and cousins to Europe. Expecting hostility, she encoun- tered transformation instead. After buying airline tickets, the family learned their trip coincided with Chmielnik's Jewish festival. "A Jewish festival in Chmielnik? How can this be?" Greenspun asked. "There are no Jews left:' With a current population of 4,200, Chmielnik was home to 10,000 Jews and 2,000 non-Jews before World War II. Nearly all of the Jews, including Speiser's grandparents, died in Treblinka's gas chambers. The festival evolved from a 2002 com- memoration of Chmielnik's 450th anni- versary. City officials and teachers reserved one day to present the former Jewish com- munity."We thought to explain the Jewish culture was important:' said Piotr Krawczyk, Chmielnik's fulltime historian. "Chmielnik was a Jewish town. No question" Several thousand gathered for klezmer music and Israeli folk dancing in the town A40 September 25 • 2008 iN square, where German soldiers and snarl- ing dogs herded Speiser's father and aunts into trucks in 1942. Remarkably, five Garfinkel siblings survived Hasag's ammunition factories in Skarzysko-Kamienna, Kielce and Czestochowa; the German concentration camps of Bergen-Belsen, Buchenwald and Dachau; and grueling death march- es. Sonia Nothman, 85, and Regina Muskovitz, 79, live in Detroit. The late Bela Soloway lived many years in Detroit before retiring to Florida. The late Nathan Garfinkel rebuilt his life in Detroit, where he lectured for the Holocaust Memorial Center. Traveling with Greenspan helped Speiser "put into pictures the stories I've heard all my life:" She likened her first visit to a Pandora's Box that wouldn't quite open. "When I came with my father, we didn't get the family story. We didn't get his story. We got the political story," Speiser recalled. "We wanted to see the house, but Dad would say, later: And we didn't see the house. Now the things I wanted I'm get- ting from my Aunt Helen:' Speiser and her cousins often lagged behind Greenspun as the 81-year-old charged ahead on cobblestone streets to find familiar places. On reaching No. 9 Kielcska, Greenspun wept, overcome by memories of her mother fetching water from the well. Speiser cried, too, as she mourned the grandmother she never met. "My father would tell me how I would love my grandmother." A two-story house has replaced the original stone dwelling and grain store. Krawczyk confirmed what Greenspun had heard: the Garfinkel home was destroyed. As Soviet troops advanced, Krawczyk explained, they bombed at random. In 1990, no one would help Speiser and her father enter Chmielnik's abandoned synagogue. In June, town officials ushered her inside for a music concert. Seated where her grandfather had worshipped, Speiser turned to look at the balcony where her grandmother had observed services. Plans are under way to convert the syna- gogue to a museum of Jewish culture by 2012. "We decided to keep the memories for the new generations," Krawczyk said. "How can we build the future if we forget the past?" Marveling at the reception, Speiser noted that Poland's emergence into the 21st cen- Sonia Garfinkel Nothman is a longtime Detroit resident. Nathan Garfinkel rebuilt his life in Detroit. He died in 2006. Regina Garfinkel Muskovitz is a longtime Detroit resident. Arlene Garfinkel Speiser of Farmington Hills, second from left, and Helen Garfinkel Greenspun, front in black sweater, with Arlene's cousins in Chmielnik, Poland, in June /4M