■ all's fare

A Taste Of Th

Pars deliciously combines several cuisines fro

.

BY ANNABEL COHEN I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN

I wasn't prepared for Pars. I'm not familiar with the Iranian food served by the res-
taurant and mistakenly thought it would be similar to other Arabic cuisines. Silly
American.
Quite simply, there is no restaurant quite like Pars in Michigan. I describe the food
as a cross between Arabic and Indian cuisine, which is not surprising given Iran's posi-
tion on the globe. Pars is an abbreviation of "Persia," and like the country itself, the
cuisine is a melding of culinary cultures that were part of both the Silk and Spice roads.
What lies inside is hidden by the restaurant's unassuming facade, which retains archi-
tectural nuances of previous occupants. The interior, however, is pleasant and somewhat
elegant, not fussy.
Pizzazz isn't what owners Hossein Rajaee and Mohammad Gharffarloo envisioned
when they opened Pars less than two years ago. Authenticity was the goal. Though
neither owner is a chef, it is Gharffarloo, a physician by day, whose passion for Iranian
food propels Pars. According to Rajaee, there
are only about 4,500 people of Iranian descent
Pars Restaurant
living
in the area. So even for veteran diners,
30005 Orchard Lake Road
the menu is a bit mysterious. The names for
Farmington Hills
most dishes are in transliterated Farsi, followed
(248) 851-8200;
by short English descriptions. Yet, I still wasn't
parslrestaurant.com
sure what composed many of the more unusual
dishes. Luckily, the well-versed staff was there
Appetizers: $3.95-$6.95
to explain the intricacies and offer tastings, if
Entrees: $13.95-$24.95
desired.

B 8 •

SEPTEMBER 2008 •

JN platinum

For first-timers, I suggest sharing several dishes. My group began with an appetizer
of feta cheese, walnuts arid fresh herbs called Sabzi and Panir. Unsure of how to pro-
ceed, we were advised by the waiter to pick up the fresh, whole herb leaves (mint and
basil mostly) and scoop up a bit of cheese and walnuts. It felt fresh and healthy to eat
so simply. All entrees are served with either vegetarian barley or lentil soup or a simple
dinner salad with a distinctive creamy avocado dressing.
We then ordered Vegetarian Fesenjon, an entree that consists of a walnut and
pomegranate puree that is at once intensely sweet and tart, served with basmati rice on
the side. An herb stew (Ghormeh Sabzi) was rich with parsley, scallions, cilantro and
fenugreek and lime, with red beans and chunks of tender beef. The ground chicken
kebab — Koubideh Morgh — was lightly and beautifully marinated in herbs and
saffron, resulting in a complex yet subtle flavor, and the lamb shank (Baghali-Polo-E-
Mahicheh; shown) is simmered in a simple tomato sauce. All the marinades are tra-
ditional, adapted by Gharffarloo, and each dish is served with basmati rice or dill rice
with fava beans. Additionally, there are four specialty rice dishes, each usually served
with some sort of meat or chicken kebab. Our Shirin Polo rice was seasoned with saf-
fron, rose water, orange peel, pistachios and almonds, and served with grilled chicken.
Most desserts are typical European-style restaurant fare. For more authentic choices,
try the Persian rice pudding or Palodeh, slushy semifreddo custard with very thin noo-
dles and rosewater syrup, served with sour cherry and lemon juice.
Pars is an exceptionally delicious addition to the culinary landscape. Don't expect a
high-profile or chain restaurant; this new guy in town is mostly quiet, except for the
live music and belly dancing from 8:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. MI