Wolfgang Puck brings his trademark standards to Detroit. BY DAVID MOSS I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN Pulling up to the new MGM Grand Detroit, we left our car with the complimentary valet parking and were off on a dining and gaming adventure at this new Detroit landmark. For eye appeal, the MGM doesn't disappoint. The 100,000-square-foot casino floor features rows of slot machines; craps, black jack and Texas hold 'em tables; and roulette wheels. Visitors also will find plenty of dining options, among them Palette Dining Studio, which is billed as "small plates," but is really more of an upscale "all-you-can-eat" buffet. Along the perimeter of the casino sit three high-end restaurants, two owned by acclaimed West Coast chef Michael Mina and one by fellow West Coast restaurateur Wolfgang Puck, offering contemporary American fare. With reservations at Wolfgang Puck Grille, we waited just a minute to be seated and were immediately (and consistently) swarmed by assorted men in starched French blue shirts offering wine, appetizers, bread arid anything else we might think of Unlike the bells and whistles of the casino, this restaurant, as envisioned by esteemed hospitality designer Tony Chi, has a decid- edly warm and rustic feel, with racks of firewood at the entrance and a fireplace near the bar. Tall communal tables rest across from the bar and overlook the main dining room. This contemporary version of a classic bar and grill offers a menu that reflects Puck's signature comfort food — including buttermilk pancakes with caramelized apples and Vermont maple butter on the breakfast menu — mixed with a variety of dishes inspiration by those at his restaurants Spago and Cut. For starters, we shared a salad of mixed greens, tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. The salad was gently seasoned and flavorful. Several appetizer choices looked great, including pumpkin ravioli and angel-hair pasta with field mushrooms. While waiting for din- ner, we lingered over glasses of Two Tone Farm Cabernet — a purplish-blue fruit bomb from Napa, and the signature Passion Fruit martini, which my dining companion rated as a perfect 10. For dinner, we opted for comfort food. My braised-beef short ribs, served atop a parsnip puree with roasted vegetables, were fall- ing-off-the-bone delicious. My companion's large helping of veal wiener schnitzel, served with warm potato salad and arugula, was done perfectly and tasted great. Also on the menu were seared rare tuna with jasmine rice, pan-seared swordfish, almond-ginger crusted salmon and pan-roast- Wolfgang Puck Grille ed organic chicken. Meat eaters will enjoy the Colorado lamb chops or prime New York steak. 1777 Third St., Detroit For dessert, we chose a Dobos torte (seven-layer cake), and the first taste brought back mem- (313) 465 1777; wolfgangpuck.com ones of my youth, when I enjoyed this delicacy prepared by my Hungarian grandmother. The long, thin slice had the perfect melding of chocolate and coffee flavors. Appetizers/Salads: $14 $28 Great sports teams (forget the Lions), a newly renovated art institute and casino hotels with Entrees: $25 $48 destination restaurants are making people look at Detroit in a whole new light. On a trip down- Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner town, Wolfgang Puck Grille is a sure bet. - - - ❑ Counterclockwise from top: Creating the feeling of a cozy mountain cabin, 350 naturally shed Canadian elk antlers hang above the tavern dining area; Wolfgang Puck oversaw the opening; menu options include a roasted beet and goat cheese Napoleon with hazelnut vinaigrette. B 1 0 • MARCH 2008 • TN platinum