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February 21, 2008 - Image 51

Resource type:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2008-02-21

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Arts & Entertainment


A Delicious Decade

Tony's Embers Deli thrives with old-style Jewish delicacies.


There are always the few who
might not give a new restau-
rant much chance to succeed ... It was
no different in the case of Embers Deli
that had opened on Orchard Lake Road
north of Commerce Road in Orchard
Lake Village 10 years ago, when Tony
and Sonja Perkovic took over the for-
mer Dave's Deli site ... The name was
later changed to its present title, Tony's
Embers Delicatessen.
However, with a huge variety of
high-quality, Jewish-style presentations
brought on board with the addition
of Rose Guttman, former co-owner of
Irving's Delicatessen with hubby, Irving,
the ultra-clean Tony's Embers added
massive dimensions to its status as a
good, sound Jewish deli operation ...
Rose's noted preparations of various
Jewish cooking approaches are legend
... Her gefilte fish and pickled trout are
priceless, as are Rose's stuffed cabbage
and peppers, beef short ribs, Hungarian
goulash, cholent, corned beef hash and so
much more.
Ten years may not seem like a long time
in business for a restaurant, but it is when
the original expectancy by some may have
called for less ... And in the case of Tony's
Ember's Deli, the key of yearly betterment
has made the outlook an even lengthier
EXPECTATIONS ARE very high for
the soon-to-open Mykonos Greek Taverna
at the former Macaroni Grill location on
Northwestern Hwy., Farmington Hills
... Owners are developer tycoon Robert
Asmar and son, Vincent, whose restaurant
ownerships include numerous chain din-

ing franchise operations ... The
encrusted with chopped
aim of Robert and Vincent is for
macadamias and served with
a heavily loaded touch that will
banana pineapple beurre
include the bringing of a lavish
blanc and tropical fruit
yesteryears Detroit Greektown
salsa; or banana almond
remembered by many folks to
snapper pan-fried with
the Northwest area ... To head
banana rum sauce, sauteed
Mykonos Greek Taverna, they
bananas and browned but-
have selected a Greek managing
ter amandine ... The Kruse
Danny Raskin
partner duo whose names are
and Muer group includes
Senior Columnist
synonymous with Greek dining
Rochester Chop House and
... Also a Greek executive chef
Kabin Kruser's Oyster Bar,
noted for his widely diversified dishes ...
Rochester; Kruse and Muer in Rochester
Restaurant seating will not only be for
Hills, Troy and Lake Orion.
325, but a separate bar-lounge with seat-
ing for nearly 80 will be almost larger than broasted chicken and asked, "is this a spe-
some entire restaurants ... The lounge
cial night?" ... "No," said his companion,
will have a large square bar, stools, booths, "it's always .like this." ... They were talking
chairs and tables ... Music is hinted ...
about a jazz gig by the Jerry McKenzie Jazz
One of their managing partners, Tony
Trio at Nikola's on Telegraph, north of 10
Hadjisofroniou, is highly respected, very
Mile, Southfield.
knowledgeable and well-liked ... The
The group is there the first, third and
other person cannot be named as yet, but
fourth Thursday of every week ... Guest
is also very popular with admired skills in artists love to sit in, riff standing or sing-
dining circles, including Greek operational ing as the trio makes a lot of positive
waves with its hot and heavy tempos ...
MANY OF THE dishes brought back
Jerry on drums mastering the brushes
from his annual family vacation to vari-
and soft stick beats so necessary with
ous Caribbean regions might have been
Nikola's low ceiling ... Piano stylings with
a toughie to prepare except for one of Bill
feelings and intimate techniques by Matt
Kruse's employees ... His fine executive
Michaels ... And professional clarity and
chef at Bill's Kruse and Muer restaurant
strong fingers of Dan Jordan on bass ...
group, Chris Hessler, is finding this year's
Guest artists this particular Thursday
"Escape to the Caribbean" menu being
evening included the great jazz sax man
served through March 31 a snap with his
Charlie Gabriel doing a terrific "Stardust"
love of Caribbean fare.
and "Stars Fell On Alabama" among other
Don't know too many chefs who could
wonderful tunes, with masterful licks and
skillfully put out things like Trade Winds
rolls, plus giving out with sensational ups
Mussels steamed with coconut milk, fresh
and downs on "How Much Do You Love
lime and lemon grass; or Macadamia Nut
Me?" ... then doing duos with the smooth
Chicken, an oven-baked, boneless breast
rhythms of Don Swindell on flugel horn

and trumpet Also crowd-pleasing
songster Mark Randisi ... Nothing quite
like thawing on some wholesome food
and listening to the rhythms of a good
solid jazz group.
MAIL DEPT. ... "My wife and I used
to enjoy Nifty Norman's in Commerce
Township, and after Norm LePage sold it
and it became just Nifty's. I believe the
chef (and maybe the owner) was a gentle-
man named Rick Vogel. His food was
superb. I can still taste the cashew chicken
tortellini amaretto. It was a great casual
place with gourmet cuisine. The piano bar
was excellent as well.
"Many evenings we would be enjoying
dinner when Chef Vogel would be mak-
ing the rounds, meeting the customers
and getting what was almost extremely
positive feedback. It became our favorite
place, and the best kept secret in town,
though we always recommended it to our
"Then came the fire. We hoped that
our beloved Nifty's would reopen soon.
We were crushed to learn that it was gone
forever. Whatever happened to Chef Vogel?
I can't believe someone so talented did
not open another place. Maybe he took
his skills and set out for greener pastures
elsewhere. Do you or your readers know
where he might be?" ... Michael Mony,
West Bloomfield.
CONGRATS ... To Beth Iatrou on her
41st birthday ... To David Epstein on his
40th birthday ... To twins Lincoln and
Stanley Racey on their 80th birthdays ...
To Tony Brooks on his 45th birthday. ❑

Danny's e-mail address is

dannyraskin@sbcglobal.net .

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/2 LB Nova Lox, Whipped Cream Cheese,
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February 21 0 2008


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