Aromas of Aleppo

Author Poopa Dweck shares a modern taste of an ancient Persian community.

PRODUCED BY LYNNE KONSTANTIN I PHOTOGRAPHS BY QUENTIN BACON

"Visit an Aleppian Jewish home on any given morning, and you can identify the
day of the week by the richly perfumed air wafting from the busy kitchen," writes
Poopa Dweck in Aromas of Aleppo: The Legendary Cuisine of Syrian Jews (Ecco;
$49.95). "If it is Friday, the traditional Aleppian Sabbath dishes will be simmering,
and you will encounter the concentrated tang of tamarind and the bright herbal
essence of mint emanating ... ."
The kitchen is the soul of the Jewish home in this ancient city in the northwest-
ern plains of Syria. And although Dweck was born into a community of Aleppian
Jews in New York, the home she created with her husband and three children was
entrenched in the delicious and intriguing traditions
of her heritage. Determined to ensure the tradi-
•••' A ROMAS.LE PPE.
• .
tions would continue, Dweck, along with a group
of like-minded community cooks, began document-
ing their customs and recipes under the auspices of
the Sephardic Women's Organization in Deal, NJ.,
where she lives.
Taking the group's task to the highest level,
Dweck offers the best of her community in Aromas
of Aleppo
a gorgeous collection of more than 180
traditional Aleppian dishes that gracefully combine
Mediterranean and Levantine influences and range
from workman's meals fit for the midday siesta to the regal opulence of a tradition-
al Passover seder. Blending beautifully photographed images of dishes with equally
charming photos of Dweck's own family as well as historical Aleppian families, the
book is far more than a cookbook — it is a keepsake. On the following pages is a
taste of Dweck's work.
— Lynne Konstantin

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Beid Hamine

SLOW-COOID EGGS WITH ONION PEELS

These hard-cooked eggs were traditionally prepared the day before Passover for use
at the seder and throughout the holiday. Make a large quantity to have on hand.
These distinctive eggs are not the usual white color of hard-boiled eggs; they turn
light beige as a result of the onions, which caramelize slightly in the cooking water.
To produce an even darker shade, just add a pinch of ground coffee.

12 eggs
Skins from 12 onions
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Combine the eggs and onion skins in 4 quarts of water in a large stockpot over high
heat. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Add the vegetable oil to the stock-
pot (it prevents the water from evaporating). Simmer for at least 6 to 8 hours, or
overnight. Alternatively, the eggs may be baked at 200T for 6 hours or overnight.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM AROMAS OF ALEPPO: THE LEGENDARY CUISINE OF SYRIAN JEWS BY POOPA
DWECK. PHOTOGRAPHS BY QUENTIN BACON. COPYRIGHT 2007. PUBLISHED BY ECCO.

IN 1 platinum •

JANUARY 2008 •

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