Royal Oak F or years, the only thing piercing the sky in Royal Oak was the painted water tower marking the flora and fauna of the Detroit Zoological Park. And technically, it's not in the heart of town. Today, though, it's a bird of a differ- ent sort — construction cranes, that is, — assembling a host of soft loft buildings and condominium towers creating, for the first time, a true Royal Oak skyline. So it's only natural, then, that what's happening closer to the ground is also evolving, what with new shops and restau- rants mingling effortlessly with longtime favorites. DINING Opting to break bread in Royal Oak poses one great challenge: there are so many choices. The indecisive have been warned. On the east side of Main Street, just south of 11 Mile, Beirut Palace (105 S. Main, 248-399-4600) tempts with flavors of the Levant, as well as the conviviality of sharing a post-meal water pipe with friends on its popular patio. Consider this block of Main Street a 6C OCTOBER • 2007 main STREETS modern Silk Road as you trade your tab- bouleh for tempura and the like at Katana Nu Asian Steakhouse (111 S. Main, 248-591-9900), where the tableside chefs entertain diners with spatula trickery, or sushi at Little Tree (107 S. Main, 248-586- 0994). Also calling this swath of Main Street home is the come-as-you-are Comet Burgers (207 S. Main, 248-414-4567) for "sliders" and the urbane ambiance of Andiamo Osteria (129 S. Main, 248-582- 9300). Across the street, the barbecue and live entertainment at Memphis Smoke (100 S. Main, 248-543-4300) still draws large crowds, while the vibe is much more soothing next door at Sweetwater's (106 S. Main, 248-582-0518) where the coffee and tea hit the spot every time. Rounding out the mix, Monterrey Cantina (312 S. Main, 248-545-1940) spices things up with its upbeat approach to south-of-the-border cuisine and Tom's Oyster Bar (318 S. Main, 248-541-1186) constantly satisfies with its daily fresh catch and raw bar. Book-ending Main Street on the south - is a relatively new trio of restaurants similar in spirit but divergent in taste. The twice-fried frites, creamiest of creamy macaroni and cheese, steamed mussels and other toothsome fare, as well rusti- cally modern decor, at Bastone (419 S. Main, 248-544-6250) was inspired by the classic Belgian brasserie. Sharing a roof and housemade beers, the adjacent Café Habana (421 S. Main, 248-544-6225) offers a taste of that off- limits island. The sandwiches are a must, as is the addictive chimichurri sauce, washed down with a cold Cervasa: house- made blonde ale with chili pepper and lime. And flanking Bastone on the north is the sophisticatedly appointed wine bar Vinotecca (417 S. Main, 248-544-6256). Indeed, as Main Street's "restaurant row" attracts most of the crowds, nearby streets shouldn't be ignored. A few blocks west finds the friendly Lily's Seafood (410 S. Washington, 248-591-5459) and authentic tapas at Sangria (401 S. Lafayette, 248- 543-1964), where the namesake drink is a must. Finally, when that age-old Italian-ver- sus-Chinese debate reaches a stalemate — the comfortable D'Amato's (222 S. Sherman, 248-584-7400) or longtime downtown anchor Peking House (212 S. Washington, 248-545-2700) for example — agree to disagree and opt for a tasteful trek at what is sure to be metro Detroit's only Nepalese restaurant, Kathmandu Chao (411 S. Washington, 248-546- 7286). Coffee on the go is hardly the way to start the day. Rather, make time to tuck into the Parisian-inspired gem Café Muse (317 S. Washington, 248-544-4749), where the orange juice is fresh-squeezed and the tempting fare is proof enough that break- fast is the most important meal of the day. Those with any eye to aesthetics will enjoy a trio of stylistically sophisticated, but far from stuffy spots: Oak City Grille (212 W. Sixth, 248-556-0947) and the recently opened Town Tavern (116 W. Fourth, 248-544-7300) by Beverly Hills Grill maestro Bill Roberts. Outside the downtown core, and as dif- ferent in food philosophy to one another as day is to night, stand the vanguard of vegetarian cuisine in Metro Detroit, Inn Season Café (500 E. Fourth, 248-547- 7916), and a couple of spots vying for the "best ribs in town" crown: Oxford Inn (1214 S. Main, 248-543-5619) and Vinsetta Grill (28028 Woodward, 248- 543-2626). Finally, walk off a big meal and cure a sweet tooth at the same time with a stop for ice cream at Stucchi's (205 S. Main, 248-336-9229), or Chicago-bred newcomer Oberweis Ice Cream & Dairy Store (304 N. Main, 248-336-0303), or the oddly paired but surprisingly tasty pop- corn and candy combinations from Dale & Thomas Popcorn Company (304 S. Main, 248-658-4000). SHOPPING The high concentration of independent merchants in downtown Royal Oak means the cookie-cutter styles found elsewhere are an extinct breed in these parts. For starters, there's Funky 7 (411 S. Main, 248-398-6700) with its offbeat T- shirts, the junior-focused Pitaya (211 S. Main, 248-545-6666), the denim-centric Chaud Jeans (414 S. Washington, 248- 399-3980) and of-the-moment retailer American Apparel (405 S. Washington, 248-547-1904) for sublimely simple and comfortable, logo-free American-made T- shirts and casual wear.