Birmingham T o say it's a small town might give the impression its streets fold up at dusk. To refer to it as just a suburb would be a slight to its big-city trappings that provide its singular charac- ter — a sense of some place rather than anyplace — replicated nowhere else. Indeed, in this geographically-sprawling region of ours, downtown Birmingham maintains its allure, putting on a fresh face every now and again, pulling in even the most far-flung among us. Snacking, supping or sipping is never a problem in these parts. In fact, so exten- sive and varied are the choices that if you leave hungry you only have yourself to blame. For dependable, uncomplicated eats, make like the locals and head to Leo's Coney Island (154 S. Old Woodward, 248- 540-8780), Olga's (138 S. Old Woodward, 248-647-2760) or Greek Islands (221 Hamilton Row, 248-646-1222). And no mention of come-as-you-are "dining" is complete without acknowledging the original Hunter House (35075 Woodward, 248-646-7121). When the occasion calls for something a little more up market, Forte (201 S. Old Woodward, 248-594-7300) impresses with its eclectic interior and equally diverse menu. Across the street, the perennial favorite 220 (220 Merrill, 248-645-2150) offers the best of all worlds, from its sometimes raucous bar and spirited Art Deco-inspired dining room to — weather permitting — glorious outdoor dining, the perfect perch from where to enjoy the sublime Tuscan chicken salad while watching the passing parade of swells. At the cozy, yet animated Streetside Seafood (273 Pierce, 248-645-2150) and equally uproarious Mitchell's Fish Market (117 Willits, 248-646-3663), the fare, obviously, is befitting of Poseidon's table, while carnivores in the group can feast on perfectly marbled and aged steaks and thick chops at Cameron's Steakhouse (115 Willits, 248-723-1700), hands down one of the most attractive dining rooms in town. And nearby, the new Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar (323 N. Old Woodward, 248- 723-0134) is drawing crowds and raves in equal numbers. The portions are plenty and drinks are cheap at longtime dining spot Peabody's (34965 Woodward, 248-644-5222), still serving up its thick and juicy prime rib, BdURit ULTI)LAT1011 EASTERN_ , PRO-11S and equally thick — creamy — Swiss onion soup. Speaking of soup, and inspired by the now famous "Seinfeld" episode featuring a popular soup takeaway and its less-than- hospitable owner, The Original Soup Man (172 N. Old Woodward, 248-594- 7687) promises a changing menu of daily soups and salads, and counter help always happy to see you. A mile or so east of downtown, the Eton Street corridor is home to the lushly land- scaped and richly appointed Big Rock Chop House (245 S. Eton, 248-647-7774), located in Birmingham's former train station, and a true neighborhood diner if there ever was one, the always friendly, always satisfying Whistle Stop (501 S. Eton, 248-647-5588) where there may be a line for a table weekend mornings, but diving into a plate of cinnamon roll French toast or eggs cooked just right is well worth the wait. Ethnically speaking, Birmingham gives foodies of all stripes a wealth of choices. There's the flavors of the Emerald Isle at Dick O'Dow's (160 W. Maple, 248-642- 1135), while Salvatore Scallopini (505 N. Old Woodward, 248-644-8977) and Brooklyn (111 Henrietta, 248-258-6690) have earned a loyal following with tradi- tionally prepared pasta and veal dishes, and wood-oven cooked pizzas, respec- tively. When the flavors of the Far East call, a couple of good bets include Sy Thai (315 Hamilton Row, 248-258-9830) and Tokyo Sushi & Grill (225 E. Maple, 248-258- 6501). And naturally, flavors of the Middle East abound, from the convivial Pita Café (239 N. Old Woodward, 248-645-6999) and thoughtfully appointed Elie's (263 Pierce, 248-647-2420), to the white table- cloth, sophisticated Phoenicia (588 S. Old Woodward, 248-644-3122). For a truly delightful meal, both in terms of ambience and food, the clubby Rugby Grill, inside the richly appointed, chichi Townsend Hotel (100 Townsend, 248-642-5999) is where power brokers begin and end their days, while mid-day it's the provenance of the ladies who lunch. There's no denying the appeal of a frothy latte or fresh brewed cup of coffee to start the day or simply recharge the batteries. But break things up a bit with a healthful, flavorful fresh squeezed juice or nutrition-packed smoothie at Beyond Juice (270 W. Maple, 248-594-7078) and Tropical Squeeze (215 N. Old Woodward, 248-594-6316), or the smoothie station inside Aunt Olive's Good Food to Go (525 N. Old Woodward, 248-593-0364). Lastly, you'd be remiss to end a meal or pass on an opportunity to simply treat yourself without indulging in the fine pastries and baked goods from Charlie's Patisserie (126 S. Old Woodward, 248- 723-2126), Canella Patisserie and Creperie (300 Hamilton Row, 248-203- 9704), or The Cupcake Station (136 N. Old Woodward, 248-593-1903). Of course if you'd rather enjoy an ice cream sundae or chocolate-covered caramel then you'd best make a bee line for either the charming Kilwin's (162 N. Old Woodward, 248-646-5940), or a true southeastern Michigan classic, Sander's (745 E. Maple, 248-594-2056), which, thankfully, for chocoholics anyway, has been brought back to life. SHOPPING If, as they say, change is good, then great things are happening in downtown Birmingham's tidy retail district. Indeed, Maple Road, running the length of downtown from Bates to Woodward is chock-a-block with women's apparel and accessories stores offering haute couture to comfy sweats to everything in between. Anchoring the western end of the street, BIRMINGHAM ON PAGE 48A main STREETS OCTOBER • 2007 47A