• PriO! • .... . •.6; , I g4 . 4. 7 r Wearing modern fashions, Bedouin shepherds tend to their flocks in the Negev. One clash between tradition and modernity involves the environmental impact of the grazing. Marcy J. Levinson Jewish Renaissance Media The Negev, Israel F east on lamb, rice, peas and other vegetables while relaxing under the expanse of a brightly deco- rated tent in the middle of the desert at a Bedouin halfla (feast). Take a few puffs of pure Turkish tobacco from an authentic hookah pipe while drums and Bedouin stringed instruments set the mood for fun and traditional debke (line) danc- ers. Imagine the romance of sleeping in a Bedouin tent under the stars, then rising before dawn to climb Masada. That Bedouin itinerary is a trip highlight for Birthright Israel tours, school groups and other tourists visiting Israel. But the real life of Israeli Bedouin is not something you will find in a glossy bro- chure for Israeli tourism. Maggots, the stench of rotting animals in the nearly triple-digit temperatures of the desert and raw human waste are just part of the reality of a Negev Bedouin village. Dusty, winding dirt roads without adequate grading traverse recognized and unrecognized villages throughout the Negev Desert, where more than 110,000 Bedouin live. Streams run through the vil- lages, but the water, like the halfla party, is an illusion: It's sewage runoff from other villages, Jewish and Bedouin. The seven government-recognized vil- lages in the Negev where the Bedouin are encouraged to settle are barely discernible from the unofficial villages. Bedouin society often clashes with Israel. The official villages, for example, create problems because the Bedouin hierarchy divides tribal groups by skin color and caste. And traditional Bedouin polygamy is illegal. While the Bedouin lifestyle is basic and often lacks modern amenities, it is not immune to influences of high-tech Israel: a shepherd with a cell phone but no work- ing toilet; a shack of tin, chicken wire and tarpaulin-covered wood held together with twine — and a satellite dish on the side. Winds Of Uncertainty Today, the Bedouin culture faces many internal struggles, including the transition from the grazing fields to the factories where Bedouins hold jobs; the disconnect between the home setting and the class- room for children; and a shift in thinking for those battling for the right to graze and live on land they deem their own. The Bedouin are Israeli citizens who often seem forgotten by the Israeli govern- ment. They face high unemployment, a high educational dropout rate, soaring crime and a large population of idle youth. New York real estate management magnate Robert Arnow is a Conservative Jew who is concerned about the Bedouin and Israel. He established the Center for Bedouin Studies at Ben-Gurion University 10 years ago, and in May the center was officially dedicated and named for him. "For an American Jew to be identify- ing with the Bedouin of the Negev is very important," Arnow said. "This is a problem that's not going to go away. Israel was able to create a Third World country here in the Negev by not helping the Bedouin. If you care about Israel, you care about the Bedouin." Ben-Gurion University has taken up Arnow's challenge by offering scholarships and hope. It has more Bedouin students than ever and just graduated its first female Bedouin doctor — a big stride for a culture in which women are not tradition- ally sent to study. Unsympathetic Concern Others are less sympathetic to the plight of the Bedouin. Environmentalist Mon Tal, the founder of the Arava Institute for Environmental Studies, which is known for bringing together Arabs and Jews to learn about and appreciate the Negev, is disgust- ed by the illegal structures the Bedouin build in the Negev and by the grazing of their livestock on land that belongs to the Jewish National Fund. "There are 50,000 illegal construction buildings in the Negev," said Tal, who is writing an article on grazing laws. "Surely 50,000 Jewish buildings would not be tol- erated!' Tal said illegal grazing by 100,000 head of livestock is hurting the environment. "The situation is intolerable he said. NF [Jewish National Fund] has hired a guard to protect the trees they recently planted!' By contrast, the Bedouin in the north work with JNF in the Atir Forest to the benefit of all, Tal said. "Properly taken care of, there can be sustainability." JNF's biggest initiative now is called Blueprint Negev, which aims to settle half a million Jews in the southern desert within a decade. The program, JNF spokeswoman Jodi Bodner said, is "about developing the Negev Desert for the betterment of all its citizens. It will drive dramatic, positive change in the region and substantially increase the standard of living for all — Jews, Arabs and Bedouin alike." The Israeli government has pledged $4 billion toward the development of the Negev, Bodner said. The plans include transportation, schools, agriculture and employment opportunities. "There is a romantic view of the life of the Bedouin — that they are sustainable in their own right. But that is not the truth:' Bodner said. "Rather, the Bedouin are deal- ing with old vs. modern lifestyle issues, sky-high population growth, 90 percent unemployment, extremely low school attendance and high crime rates." She said Blueprint Negev hopes to "alle- viate some of the sharp edges" of the issues that affect the Bedouin. An Imam's Story One person facing the difficulties of change is Bedouin Imam Kamal Abu Heniya, who lives in the first government- organized Bedouin village, Tel Sheva. He welcomed 15 Jewish media members to his home on a warm May day to share sto- ries of his 12 children. Located off the modern main street of the village, the seemingly large house had piles of concrete block and other building supplies beside the driveway. The home looked complete, yet in a state of constant renovation. The air was heavy with foreign smells and the dust lingered. As the sheik, or man of the house, Imam Heniya came out of his home wearing a red-and-white head covering, a gray tunic, pants and sandals. Expressionless except for the years of hard work etched into his face, he shook the hands of the men in the visiting group and said in Arabic that he was pleased to have guests at his home. The guides for the day were Jamal Al- Forgotten Citizens on page 18 August 9 • 2007 17