iI all's fare - From pizza to paella, Pi brings Europe to Southfield. fq- BY JUDY GALENS I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN T he stated goal at Pi, a continental eatery offering an upscale feel at moderate prices, is to make customers feel as though they were in Europe. With a Greek owner — Tony Gioutsos, the owner of Ii Posto — and an Italian executive chef in Matted Giuffrida, Pi has claims on the Mediterranean region. In its attempt to capture the remaining cultures of Europe, Pi takes a broad approach to the dining experience, offering cuisine and ambience for a varied audience. Hipsters can make their way to the back of the building to congregate around the neon-backlit bar, a beautiful copper structure that imparts an elegant nightclub atmosphere — with a dash of sports-bar congeniality thrown in, courtesy of the widescreen televisions. Adjacent to the bar, a cozy room serves as a cigar and martini lounge, complete with comfortable furniture and a soothing soundtrack, where loungers can order from the full menu or from a selection of tapas. The cigar lounge is sepa- rated from one of two dining areas by a silky white curtain that acts as a visual divider rather than an effective barrier to smoke. The same sheer curtains, perhaps intended to recall classical Greece, also mark the restaurant's entryway and punctuate the second dining area. The curtains suggest a sleek, sophisticated tone, slightly at odds with the disco- flavored neon lights shining on them. Tables are covered in crisp white cloths, and the stark white dishes come in a variety of geometric shapes. The menu at Pi resembles a survey course in European cuisine, with a distinct emphasis on Italian and Greek offerings. Appetizers include beef carpaccio with shaved parmigiano and aioli on a bed of arugula; prosciutto with Parmigiano and cantaloupe; and a basic bruschetta with tomatoes, basil and an abundance of garlic. A favorite, spec- tacular dish: shrimp served with sauteed fresh spin- ach, red onions and feta. The flavors are far from timid, but they blend together beautifully. The pizzas, baked in a traditional wood-burning oven, truly shine at Pi. The thin-crusted pies make for a generous entree, and diners can choose from several combinations or create their own (the base price for a customized pizza is S6.28). You can't go wrong with the classic Margherita, with tomato, mozzarella and basil. La Vegetariana, bursting with zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms and spinach, is rich and flavorful — and even zingier if you substitute feta for mozzarella (for an additional fee). Pasta, too, seems to be a forte of Giuffrida, who oversees the kitchen at Ii Posto and at the Gioutsos-owned Pi Banquet Hall as well. Choices include saffron lobster ravioli in a creamy tomato sauce, fettuccine with a small portion of osso buco and the wonderful Pennette Norma al Pecorino, penne with a lovely blend of garlic, eggplant, tomato and basil, generously accented with grated pecorino cheese. It's the kind of dish that makes you wish you had an auxiliary stomach. Entrees at Pi are divided by country. Italian main courses include chicken cacciatore, beef tenderloin in a Madeira mushroom sauce and salmon with oregano and capers. The salmon, while fresh and firm, was overwhelmed by a too-salty sauce. Greek dishes include lamb chops and moussaka. The remain- ing globe-trotting selections include a French bouillabaisse, Spanish paella and Irish lamb stew, tasty but unremarkable in a thin broth. Entrees and pasta dishes come with a choice of soup or salad. The wine and beer list continues the pan- European theme, with a diversity of wines offered by the bottle and glass and more than 65 beer varieties. The lunch menu offers pizzas, salads, sandwiches, a smattering of pastas and a number of more substantial entrees. While Pi might serve its customers better by focusing on Mediterranean specialties, the menu does offer a number of appealing choices, and the food is presented in an atmosphere of relaxed elegance at reasonable rates. Come summertime, with alfresco dining and the sounds of live music wafting on the breeze, Pi patrons may just find themselves transported. 0 Pi's version of fish and chips: white- fish filet covered with shredded potatoes in chardonnay herb sauce. al V it ' , i • *V; PI RESTAURANT $ 28875 Franklin Road Southfie Hours: 11 am. to 2 a.m., every day Price Range: Appetizers and salads: $4-$13 Pizzas: $7-$13 • 2-$29 • ;c• air I 2 • MAY 2007 • platinum S - • • . r ;