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From pizza to paella, Pi brings Europe to Southfield.
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BY JUDY GALENS I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN
T
he stated goal at Pi, a continental eatery
offering an upscale feel at moderate prices,
is to make customers feel as though they
were in Europe. With a Greek owner — Tony
Gioutsos, the owner of Ii Posto — and an Italian
executive chef in Matted Giuffrida, Pi has claims
on the Mediterranean region. In its attempt to
capture the remaining cultures of Europe, Pi takes
a broad approach to the dining experience, offering
cuisine and ambience for a varied audience.
Hipsters can make their way to the back of the
building to congregate around the neon-backlit bar,
a beautiful copper structure that imparts an elegant
nightclub atmosphere — with a dash of sports-bar
congeniality thrown in, courtesy of the widescreen
televisions. Adjacent to the bar, a cozy room serves
as a cigar and martini lounge, complete with
comfortable furniture and a soothing soundtrack,
where loungers can order from the full menu or
from a selection of tapas. The cigar lounge is sepa-
rated from one of two dining areas by a silky white
curtain that acts as a visual divider rather than an
effective barrier to smoke. The same sheer curtains,
perhaps intended to recall classical Greece, also
mark the restaurant's entryway and punctuate the
second dining area. The curtains suggest a sleek,
sophisticated tone, slightly at odds with the disco-
flavored neon lights shining on them. Tables are
covered in crisp white cloths, and the stark white
dishes come in a variety of geometric shapes.
The menu at Pi resembles a survey course in
European cuisine, with a distinct emphasis on
Italian and Greek offerings. Appetizers include
beef carpaccio with shaved parmigiano and aioli on
a bed of arugula; prosciutto with Parmigiano and
cantaloupe; and a basic bruschetta with tomatoes,
basil and an abundance of garlic. A favorite, spec-
tacular dish: shrimp served with sauteed fresh spin-
ach, red onions and feta. The flavors are far from
timid, but they blend together beautifully.
The pizzas, baked in a traditional wood-burning
oven, truly shine at Pi. The thin-crusted pies make
for a generous entree, and diners can choose from
several combinations or create their own (the base
price for a customized pizza is S6.28). You can't go
wrong with the classic Margherita, with tomato,
mozzarella and basil. La Vegetariana, bursting with
zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms and spinach, is rich
and flavorful — and even zingier if you substitute
feta for mozzarella (for an additional fee).
Pasta, too, seems to be a forte of Giuffrida,
who oversees the kitchen at Ii Posto and at the
Gioutsos-owned Pi Banquet Hall as well. Choices
include saffron lobster ravioli in a creamy tomato
sauce, fettuccine with a small portion of osso buco
and the wonderful Pennette Norma al Pecorino,
penne with a lovely blend of garlic, eggplant,
tomato and basil, generously accented with grated
pecorino cheese. It's the kind of dish that makes
you wish you had an auxiliary stomach.
Entrees at Pi
are divided by
country. Italian
main courses
include chicken
cacciatore,
beef tenderloin
in a Madeira
mushroom sauce and salmon with oregano and
capers. The salmon, while fresh and firm, was
overwhelmed by a too-salty sauce. Greek dishes
include lamb chops and moussaka. The remain-
ing globe-trotting selections include a French
bouillabaisse, Spanish paella and Irish lamb stew,
tasty but unremarkable in a thin broth. Entrees
and pasta dishes come with a choice of soup or
salad. The wine and beer list continues the pan-
European theme, with a diversity of wines offered
by the bottle and glass and more than 65 beer
varieties. The lunch menu offers pizzas, salads,
sandwiches, a smattering of pastas and a number
of more substantial entrees.
While Pi might serve its customers better by
focusing on Mediterranean specialties, the menu
does offer a number of appealing choices, and
the food is presented in an atmosphere of relaxed
elegance at reasonable rates. Come summertime,
with alfresco dining and the sounds of live music
wafting on the breeze, Pi patrons may just find
themselves transported. 0
Pi's version of fish and chips: white-
fish filet covered with shredded
potatoes in chardonnay herb sauce.
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PI RESTAURANT
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28875 Franklin Road
Southfie
Hours:
11 am. to 2 a.m., every day
Price Range:
Appetizers and salads: $4-$13
Pizzas: $7-$13
• 2-$29
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air
I 2 •
MAY 2007 •
platinum
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