Former Moroccan Jews often return to visit,
to read prayers at grave and tomb sites, to look
for their old homes in the mellab (Jewish quar-
ter), to see preserved synagogues, and yes, to
have a good time and observe the life they once
led in this land of the Moors.
The jumping-off point to any visit to
Morocco must be the busy port of Casablanca,
a city replete with good hotels and restaurants.
French language skills help, as France held
Morocco as a protectorate from 1912 to 1956.
Though other cities are more beautiful, none
come close to the cultural and entertainment
life of Casablanca, the commercial metropolis
on the Atlantic. No wonder that, before 1948,
more than 70,000 Jews resided here.
Synagogues exist in all the major cities
of Morocco, but Casablanca is probably the
only municipality where one can find a daily
minyan. Visit tombs of great Jewish rabbis in
old cemeteries, a Jewish school and a Chabad
house (212-022-22-21-46), whose warm wel-
come will inform you of services and kosher
restaurants.
Stop in at Ohalie Yosef Yitzhak (212-022-
26-90-37) and meet Mrs. Raizel Raskin, who

will guide you on a tour of this Lubavitch
school of more than 100 students. A few syna-
gogues function every day. Beth El (212-022-
26-71-92) has a daily minyan and American
and Israeli tourists often attend services here.
A highlight of any visit must be the Museum
of Moroccan Judaism (Le Musee du Judaisme
Marocain; 022-99-49-40), said to be the only
Jewish museum in a Muslim country. Here you
can observe artifacts of a historic Jewish com-
munity.
In contrast to the white houses of
Casablanca, the walls of the homes in
Marrakesh are pink, the color of the desert. A
Jewish community of about 250 persons func-
tions with two synagogues in this landmark
oasis. The newer, modern synagogue is located
in the "New Town," at Boulavard Zerektouni,
and is visited by Jewish tourists for weekend
services.
Another synagogue is situated in the medina,
the old Arab quarter, at Laanach. The shamas,
who is blind, blesses all visitors. Most tour-
ists do not mind his asking for a donation. As
British travelers told me, "He is looking after
our heritage; it's the least we can do." 111

Left: Berber dancers in the huge square, Djemaa al-
Fna in Marrakesh Above: The outdoor market in Fez.
Below: Inside the Beth El Synagogue in Casablanca.

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For tours or accompaniment arrangements, check out Heritage Tours Private Travel,

destination experts in New York specializing in custom-designed private tours.

Tel: (800) 378-4555 or (212) 206-8400; htprivatetravel.com

platinum •

APRIL 2007 •

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