ALL'S FARE A LITTLE FEAST BY DAVID MOSS I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN D o you ever go to a restaurant and find yourself staring at the menu, vacillating between the fresh ocean fish with a luscious sauce and the rosemary- and garlic-filled promise of baby lamb chops grilled to perfection? I know I do, and I end up wishing I could order half a portion of each, plus a couple of appetizers as well. If this sounds like you, remember this name — it will come in handy. Tu-can Tango has brought tapas — Spanish for "small plates" — to West Bloomfield. Originating in Andalusia, tapas combines simple Mediterranean ingredients to create enormously satisfy- ing flavor. And Chef Jeff Muncy takes the tradition seriously, offering 29 appe- tizer-sized dishes — with something to please everyone, from meat-eat- ers to vegetarians, from fans of poultry to the fish and seafood crowd — all meant to be shared among the table. With oversized couches and candle-lit tables, a small section with a fire- place, three bar areas overlooking a black marble dance floor, and servers who are friendly, helpful and enthusi- astic about the menu, Tu-Can Tango sets the tone with a relaxing, inviting atmosphere. Accordingly, my compan- ions and I began our visit with a mellow glass of Rioja Reserva and a Cosmopolitan, one of 14 premium mar- tinis on the cocktails menu. We then sampled five tapas dishes: Ordering a couple items at a time, we began with the portobello relleno — portobello mushrooms stuffed with diced chicken, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, served au gratin with mozzarella. This dish was a hit. Next, we moved on to the petite grilled lamb chops with a citrus-honey-garlic sauce. We quickly got over being polite and picked them up to gnaw at the bone, though they were a little too well-done for our liking. The group favorite dish was the sliced slow-roasted tenderloin in a sauce of apples, chorizo and onion mar- malade — as sweet and sticky as dessert —topped with fried onion strips. This is a dish we would never have imagined putting together, but it left us wanting more. The tortilla de patata is like a crust-less potato quiche; there's hummus and pita on the menu and, on the lighter side, a smoked salmon plate and a dish of sliced tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil dressed in olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette. The dancing begins at 9 p.m., allowing visitors to burn enough calories for dessert. And you must have dessert. Our waitress suggested the churros — four warm and fresh long "doughnuts" rolled in cinnamon sugar and resting in a bath of heavenly cheesecake-like custard. Tu-Can Tango is moderately priced, and a fun way to try several interesting small main dishes. Go with a crowd or just two for romance and dancing. Either way, it's a fine way to spend an evening. ❑ Clockwise from top: Dip fried-dough churros in cream. Tenderloin slices soaked in marmalade are topped with crispy fried onions. Not just for Sunday brunch: The Salmon Ahumado brims with smoked salmon, red onions, capers, cucumber and hard-boiled eggs. Twin grilled Iamb chops are served over a citrus-honey and garlic sauce. Cozy, vibrantly colored couches and wrought-iron details reflect Tu-can Tango's Spanish inspiration. 10 • DECEMBER 200o • JNPLATINUM Indulge in the flavors of the Mediterranean at Tu-can. Tu-can Tango Tapas & Martini Bar 6041 Haggerty Road West Bloomfield (248) 669-6160 tucantango.com Hot or cold tapas: S5-S13 Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. (dinner until 11 p.m.) Friday-Saturday, 6 p.m.-2 a.m. (dinner until midnight)