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Arts &
Entertainment

Kenny's
Kitchen

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NOVEMBER
8TH 10TH

Michael Fox
Special to the Jewish News

Are you
having problems
hearing?
IT MAY BE
WAX!

T

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1178890

58

November 2 • 2006

Plenty of
shmaltz, ham in
doc about NYC
restaurateur.

here are conversational-
ists, there are kitchen phi-
losophers, and then there
is Kenny Shopsin.
For more than three decades, the
gray-haired, pot-bellied Shopsin
has presided over the grill of
the compact Greenwich Village
restaurant that bears his name.
Everybody has to play by his rules,
from the customers to his wife, five
children and one employee.
Not a regular? Who needs ya.
Party of five? Fuhgetaboutit.
In a world of chain stores and
gentrification, Shopsin is an endan-
gered species. In an era of "Have a
nice day" and "Would you like fries
with that?" Shopsin's motto might
be, "My way or the highway" With
the F-word sprinkled in.
Shopsin isn't abrasive so much as
unvarnished. He works incredibly
hard, and his reward (aside from
supporting his family) is that he's
king of his domain. He sets the
policy, he controls his environment
and he's got it pretty well laid out
after all these years.
The altogether wonderful docu-
mentary I Like Killing Flies is an
affectionate yet unadorned picture
of Shopsin on the job — that is,
at the center of his universe. A
bracing record of individuality,
idiosyncrasy and iconoclasm, the
film is as refreshing as a dip in the

S