Downtown
Detroit:

t doesn't get more "main" than
Woodward Avenue. And Detroit's
storied artery doesn't get more
interesting than the stretch from
Jefferson Avenue north to Grand
Boulevard.

I

Lined with sepia-toned memories, to
be sure, of streetcars, stores and shop-
pers galore, an ongoing revitalization
is steadily coaxing Woodward out of its
long slumber.

A new shop here. A spiffy restaurant
there. And now, increasingly, a place to
call home. The transition of Detroit's
hub is not to be missed,

You might be inclined to do a double take
as you motor north from the river. After
all, the view — gleaming new office tow-
ers, handsome light posts, the sculpture
and shooting fountain in Campus Martius
park, the crowds — is hardly the dusty
image of only a few years ago.
But better to keep your eyes on the road
and take in the sights from your perch at
Au Bon Pain (in Campus Martius, 800
Woodward, 313-226-6600). Savor a rich
cup of coffee and fresh baked sweet roll in
the morning, and come back at lunch for a
savory salad or two-fisted sandwich. Make
sure to grab a seat outside at one of the
cafe tables or on the ledge of the fountain.
A meal never tasted so good.
Flanking the park on its northern edge,
the post-modern Compuware building
houses a range of eateries, including

the famous, neon-clad Hard Rock Cafe
(45 Monroe, 313-964-7625) and The
Woodward (1040 Woodward, 313-964-
4444), where foodies rave about its bistro-
style fare and history buffs give kudos to
its decor, which reflects the original street
layout of Woodward from 1807.

Also calling Compuware home is an
outpost of off-beat Ben & Jerry's (1012
Woodward, 313-964-2185), where those
insistent cravings for Chunky Monkey or
Cherry Garcia can be soothed any day of
the week.
And if you're dining with a friend, meet
him or her "under the clock at Kern's."
Well, sort of. You see, the restored piece of

Detroit retailing history, where generations
of Detroiters never missed a date, sits at
street level in front of The Woodward,
rather than over the mezzanine of J. L.
Hudson's worthy competitor. But nonethe-
less, a new generation of downtowner is
adopting this icon as their own.
Further up the street, in the
shadow of Compuware, and
barely calling attention to itself,
which makes it that much
cooler, the sleek Oslo (1456
Woodward, 313-963-0300) is part sushi
bar and part lounge on a formerly forlorn
block of Woodward.
On the avenue's western flank, the
Detroit Breakfast House and Grille @
Merchant's Row (1241 Woodward, 313-
961-1115) will make the most dedicated
night owl eager for the sun to rise. Even on
the cloudiest of days, the sunny demeanor

of the staff and a backdrop of almost-
glowing miniature colored tiles infuse
the dining room with vibrancy. That the
breakfast entrees are first-rate only adds
to a perfect morning.
And speaking of the Compuware build-
ing, be sure to check out its soaring atri-
um, home to the largest — at 14 stories
tall — indoor, hanging (15 glass "kites")
water feature in the world.
North of Grand Circus Park, the glori-
ous Fox Theater anchors the appropriate-
ly dubbed Foxtown. And it's here, flank-
ing the art deco movie palace, where the
white tablecloth Da Edoardo's Foxtown
Grille (2211 Woodward, 313-471-3500)
serves contemporary and traditional
Italian specialties, and the '50s-inspired
Johnny Rocket's (2239 Woodward, 313-

DETROIT ON PAGE '16

OCTOBER 2006

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