Downtown Birmingham: T o say its a small town might give the impression its streets fold up at dusk. To refer to it as just a suburb would be a slight to its big-city trappings that provide its singular character – a sense of some place rather than anyplace – replicated nowhere else. Indeed, in this geographically sprawling region of ours, downtown Birmingham maintains its allure, putting on a fresh face every now and again, pulling in even the most far-flung among us. TnE EVI L WEARS RADA fE NIGHT LIS TENEFt Snacking, supping or sipping is never a problem in these parts. In fact, so extensive and varied are the choices that if you leave hungry, you only have yourself to blame. For dependable, uncomplicated eats, make like the locals and head to Leo's Coney Island (154 S. Old Woodward, 248-540-8780), Olga's (138 S. Old Woodward, 248-647-2760) or Greek Islands (221 Hamilton Row, 248-646- 1222). And no mention of come-as-you- are "dining" is complete without acknowl- edging the original Hunter House (35075 Woodward, 248-646-7121). When the occasion calls for something a little more up market, Forte (201 S. Old Woodward, 248-594-7300) impresses with its eclectic interior, complete with high- backed, curving banquette and equally diverse menu. Across the street, the peren- nial favorite 220 (220 Merrill, 248-645- 2150) offers the best of all worlds, from its sometimes raucous bar and spirited Art Deco-inspired dining room to — weather permitting — glorious outdoor dining, the perfect perch to enjoy the sublime Tuscan chicken salad while watching the passing parade of swells. At the cozy, yet animated, Streetside Seafood (273 Pierce, 248-645-2150) and equally uproarious Mitchell's Fish Market (117 Willits, 248-646-3663), the fare, obviously, is befitting of Poseidon's table, while carnivores in the group can feast on perfectly marbled and aged steaks and thick chops at Cameron's Steakhouse (115 Willits, 248-723-1700), hands down one of the most attractive dining rooms in town. Ethnically speaking, Birmingham gives foodies of all stripes a wealth of choices. There's the flavors of the Emerald Isle at Dick O'Dow's (160 W. Maple, 248-642- 1135), while Salvatore Scallopini (505 N. Old Woodward, 248-644-8977) and Brooklyn (111 Henrietta, 248-258-6690) draw raves with traditionally prepared pasta and veal dishes, and wood-oven cooked pizzas, respectively. And naturally, flavors of the Middle East abound, from the convivial Pita Café (239 N. Old Woodward, 248-645- 6999) and thoughtfully appointed Elie's (263 Pierce, 248-647-2420), to the white tablecloth, sophisticated Phoenicia (588 S. Old Woodward, 248-644-3122), where the housemade, pepper-infused vodka sets a new standard for Bloody Mary preparation. For a truly delightful meal, both in terms of ambience and food, the clubby Rugby Grill, inside the richly appointed, chichi Townsend Hotel (100 Townsend, 248-642- 5999) is where power brokers begin and end their days, while mid-day it's the prov- enance of the ladies who lunch. There's no denying the appeal of a frothy latte or fresh-brewed cup of coffee to start the day, or simply recharge the batteries. But break things up a bit with a healthful, flavorful fresh-squeezed juice or nutrition-packed smoothie at Beyond Juice (270 W. Maple, 248- 594-7078) and Tropical Squeeze (215 N. Old Woodward, 248-594-6316), or the smoothie station inside Aunt Olive's Good Food to Go (525 N. Old Woodward, 248-593-0364). And when a much deserved respite is in order, nothing compares to tuning out the world and mulling over the day while savoring a pot of tea at either The Loose BIRMINGHAM ON PAGE 10 Ma In OCTOBER 200$ 9