- e FOOD Jewish Penicillin There's more than one way to make the ultimate Jewish comfort food. Annabel Cohen Special to the Jewish News C hicken soup. Just a ref- erence to this kitchen basic brings about the desire for a piping saucerful. Maybe chicken soup brought you through periods of sniffles or kept you cozy on chilly nights or was an essential starter for Rosh Hashanah, Pesach or every Shabbat. The type of soups you prefer are probably the same type your grandmother made. They may also include ingredients and preparation characteristics that reveal your family's ethnicity. Lemon and greens in a soup suggest a Mediterranean lineage. Cubes of tofu and scallions hint of the Orient. And fluffy globes made of crushed matzot and egg or little meat turnovers reveal a decidedly Jewish bent, especially Eastern European. card all the chicken fat removed from the soup. Keep one or two tablespoons and add it back to the broth. • It doesn't take much to make soup from stock — adding chopped scallions, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, shredded fresh bok choy, pea pods and a bit of soy sauce can turn a stock into your favorite Chinese vegetable soup. Or throw a handful of noodles into stock and you've got instant Jewish penicillin. Soup tips Basic Chicken Stock/Broth 1 5-6-pound roasting chicken or stewing hen 3 quarts water 2 large onions, quartered 1 large parsnip, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks 3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 3 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole 4 celery ribs cut into 1-inch • In a pinch, canned chicken broth can substitute for the real stuff. • Restaurants keep noodles from becoming swollen and mushy by precooking them and add them at the last minute to hot soup, just before serving. • Even the best made chicken stock can sometimes be weak or watery. A quick fix is to add sev- eral bouillon cubes or a couple of tablespoonfuls of "chicken base" (a concentrated chicken soup paste, available at your grocers and specialty stores). • Adding uncooked grains or beans, such as barley, rice, beans or lentils, to the stock will result in a soup with a creamy texture. Adding these ingredients to the soup during the last stages of preparation will result in a soup with a clear broth base. • Add a peeled potato to soup that's too salty — bring the soup to a boil and let the potato soak up the extra salt. • For a richer soup, don't dis- pieces 1 Tbsp. salt 10 peppercorns Place the chicken in a large stockpot. Cover with water and bring to an immediate boil. Remove the chicken from the pot and discard the water. Return the chicken to the pot and cover again with water. Add onions, parsnip, carrots, celery, garlic, salt and peppercorns. Cover the pot and simmer for 2-3 hours or until the chicken is tender but not falling apart, adding water as necessary to keep the chicken submerged. Remove the chicken to a bowl and set aside to cool. Strain the liquid (using a sieve or a colan- der lined with cheesecloth) into a large bowl. Chill the stock several hours to overnight. Remove all the fat that has risen to the sur- face (reserve the fat for another use or discard). Makes 3 quarts of stock or broth. In the meantime, remove the cooled chicken meat from the bones, discarding the skin and bones. Shred the white meat well and measure out about 2 cups and set aside. Reserve the remainder of the chicken for another recipe (chicken salad or pot pie are good options). Do not put the chicken back into the broth at this point. Spinach Lemon Rice Soup Basic Chicken Stock (see recipe above) 1 package (10 oz.) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained 1 cup long grain uncooked white rice or 2 cups cooked rice 1/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste 2 tsp. dried dill 2 cups shredded cooked chicken Salt and pepper to taste Pour stock into a large soup pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, lemon juice and spinach and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer one hour. Add more water to equal 3 quarts if necessary. Just before serving, add chicken meat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve. Quick Chicken, Noodle And Vegetable Soup This is basic vegetable soup. Experiment by adding your own favorite vegetables or substitute wild or white rice or barley for the noodles (cook them first). For vegetable suggestions, try frozen or roasted corn, water chestnuts, frozen chopped spin- ach, diced new or sweet potatoes, 2 cups of drained diced tomatoes or a can of drained beans. Basic Chicken Stock (see recipe above) 1 cup 1/4-inch-diced carrots 1 cup thick-sliced celery 1 red bell pepper, chopped 2 cups green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 Tbsp. dried parsley flakes 1 12-oz. bag thin egg noodles, uncooked 2 cups frozen peas, thawed Salt and pepper to taste Pour stock into a large soup pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the carrots, celery, bell pepper, green beans and parsley and bring to a boil again. Reduce heat slightly and cook the soup for 20 minutes. Add the noodles and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the peas and season to taste. Serve hot. Makes 12 servings. Italian Beef Pasta Soup Basic Chicken Stock (see recipe above) 1 pound lean ground beef 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 green bell pepper, diced • 1 cup chopped red or Bermuda onion 1 Tbsp. fresh chopped garlic 1 Tbsp. dried basil 1/2 tsp. fennel seeds 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes 2 cups 1/4-inch-diced zucchini 1 package (10 oz.) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained 1 can (about 15 oz.) cannelini (white beans), drained 4 cups cooked pasta shape — orzo, corksrews or tiny shells are good choices Salt and pepper to taste Bring stock to boil in a large pot over high heat. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook until no longer pink, breaking it up as it cooks. Drain the beef and set aside (do not clean the skillet). Add the oil to the skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper, onion, garlic, basil, fennel seeds (if using) and red pepper flakes and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the vegetables and meat to the stock. Cover pot and simmer 10 minutes. Add zucchini and pasta, increase heat to high and bring soup to a boil. Cook 10 minutes more. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper and serve. Makes 8-12 servings. Tortilla Soup My version of a staple at res- taurants everywhere in Mexico. Normally the tortilla strips are deep fried. I bake them for a healthier version. In a pinch, use crumbled white-corn tortilla chips. 8 white corn tortillas (or yellow corn), cut into 1/4-inch strips Basic Chicken Stock (see recipe above) 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 4 cups diced plum tomatoes 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled 1 tsp. kosher salt Fresh ground pepper to taste Hot pepper sauce (such as Tabasco), to taste 4 fresh limes 1 cup fresh chopped cilantro Fresh diced avocado, garnish (optional) Preheat oven to 350F. Arrange the tortilla strips on a baking sheet and bake for 15 -20 minutes, until the strips are golden. Set aside to cool and become crisp. Bring stock to boil in a large pot over high heat. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium- high heat. Add the onions, tomato and garlic and saute until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetables to the stock. Add the oregano, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Season the soup with the juice of 2 limes and to taste with the hot pepper sauce. Just before serving, add the cilantro and ladle the soup into large bowls. Garnish with the chopped avocado, lime wedges and top with a generous portion of the tortilla strips. Makes 8 servings. El For more recipes, please go to JNonline.us. October 12 • 2006 43