I ENTERTAII N LA** COME SEPTEMBER, football fans L RING IN THE A TANTALIZING 1 WITH IlIALL TAILGATING FEAST. STYLED AND WRITTEN BY ANNABEL COHEN I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN show their true colors with a vengeance. There's nothing like cheering, bonding — and the occasional face painting — to work up a hearty appetite. In the old days, a successful tailgat- ing party was had when folks would pack a picnic, park their station wagons and lower their tailgates to reveal paper plates full of sliced-bread sandwiches and salads. Then they'd go cheer their team to victory. Tailgating these days isn't all about the game. It's also about the food — no longer will a giant sub and chips with onion dip do. Tents and tablecloths, gas grills and portable blenders have become common at these grand "picnics." We, however, found a happy point in between bare bones and extreme — what we call a "banquet in a box." The biggest rule of thumb: nothing needs to be plugged in or fired up. That means everything can be prepared in advance and even the host can have a good time. ' \ es (rounded loaves of French-style bread like those used for soup, only larger) from a bakery, cut a 1-inch slice from the top and hollow This page: Forgo theggir with a variation on the picnic sandwich: Order the interior with your finge*almost to the crust. Fill the bowls with your favo te foods — we used salad greens, grilled vegetables and potatoes topped with chicken breast, but anything goes — from Caesar salad to sloppy Joes — then replacethe tops. Wrap the bowls in new cotton dishtowels, which can then be used by guests as placemats and napkins.