d The tent city on the shore of Grace Under Fire from page 29 hysterically, calling frantically for Moshe, her husband, out on an errand. We managed to get her inside the bedroom-sized shelter, where other tenants huddled with most of our group. • We learned from them that the woman reacted this way to each siren sound, a symptom Israel psychologists later told us is not abnormal under such conditions. To help calm her and ourselves, someone in our group began to sing the Israeli national anthem, Hatikvah. Soon all were sing- ing — hugging and crying. The connection to the land and the people was tightened even more. After the required 15-minute wait after a siren, we headed out of Haifa to Hadassah's Meirshveya Youth Village near Zichron Yaacov. During the year, this village hous- es and educates troubled youth; but for the last month, this well- tended paradise has been home to several families from Kiryat Shimona and Nahariya. Around the pool, Anat Rimer of Nahariya talked of her experi- ence at home. "Our home was bombed by a missile; it was so scary',' she said. "I was devastated. We are used to the bombs living near the border for many years where it is never quiet. But this was terrible. We saw the soldiers. We saw the rockets. We heard their whistle. You just don't know where they will fall." She worried especially about her daughter Michelle, 17, the youngest of three and perhaps the most traumatized by the constant barrage of rockets. "When the sirens sound here, I have flashbacks:' Michelle said. "It's very scary, but still, there's no place like homey" The two-hour ride to Jerusalem gave us time to reflect on our experiences up north. One man said this trip has intensified his feelings for Israel, and he is con- sidering making aliyah. Several talked of making plans to come back to Israel soon to just be there for the Israelis. Rose Bell, a retired epidemiologist from Las Vegas, made inquiries about returning as a medical volunteer. In Jerusalem that evening, Rabbi Donniel Hartman of the Shalom Hartman Institute reminded us: "You haven't just 30 August 17 • 2006 seen pain and suffering, but the reality of our existence. The mir- acle is that we can live and build here anyway. "Our greatness is that we don't leave. We go into our shelters — real or psychological — and that is part of our story. To build, we must understand and accept that not everything is simple and solvable. There is no solution to Hezbollah in the short term. "The great news is that Hezbollah can cause death, harm, pain — but cannot destroy the State of Israel. That's a great achievement. Working together, we're not powerless. We are stron- ger than our enemies?' He told the Hadassah delega- tion: "Go back home and tell sto- ries of difficulties, communicate the pain. I also want you to com- municate the strength and vitality of this country" Day 3 – Tent City and Determination Throughout the many wars in their state's short existence, Israelis always have managed to let life go on. Somehow they retain their vitality and their abil- ity to truly live under fire. This war is testing that truism. In this war, whole towns in the north are nearly shuttered as citizens leave the danger posed by Hezbollah and make their way south. Some live with families who have offered to take them in; children escape the trauma at youth villages; still others take up residence in a new sort of town like the tent city erected on the Mediterranean at Nitzanim between Ashdod and Ashkelon. The town's infrastructure — hundreds of tents for 50, toilets, showers, laundry, dining areas, kindergarten, synagogue, play areas, police station, a clinic, wel- fare service and stage for nightly entertainment — was created in two phases, each taking one day. Like an oasis of safety in the desert, this tent city now holds 6,000 people, served by 700 staff and volunteers. So far, two bar mitzvahs have taken place and one birth and brit milah (ritual circumcision). This amazing undertaking was financed by millionaire Russian businessman Arkady Gaydamak, who also is known in Israel as g*j the Mediterranean owner of profes- sional soccer and basketball teams. It is said he made his initial money dealing arms to Angola. Walking the tent city's sandy trails as the waves rolled in, you could see people drying off from dips in the sea, talking on phones provided at kiosks or sitting idly in the shade of their communal bedrooms. There were people of all ages and ethnic and religious backgrounds. Nina Azuli and her husband, Yitzchak, from Nahariya has been there with their five children for three weeks. "Step into my bedroom:' she said as she peels back the tent flap to reveal seven mattresses on the floor, several fans aimed at three of her dozing children and boxes with their belongings. "It's difficult because there are not enough showers and toilets, but it's better being away from the rockets?' Rachel Oscar, 26, from Maalot, sits in a plastic lawn chair a few tents down. She's just hanging out with her two young children, husband and her sister. "It's very good here she said in broken English. Yet, she wor- ries about the job her husband left behind and what will happen later. Though the Mediterranean is beautiful and inviting, this is no carefree Club Med. Life does go on for these Israelis — but there's also depression, displacement and loss of livelihood associated with the war plus a sense of idle- ness and purposelessness that pervades the afternoon heat. Sderot, about 20 or so miles south, is in stark contrast. Bombarded for the last six years by smaller Kassam rockets launched by Hamas from Gaza, Sderot is not a ghost town like some of the Katyusha-targeted northern towns are becoming. Here people go about their busi- ness, mindful of the rockets, but not driven away by them. Mayor Eli Moyal remembers the town's first Kassam in 2000. "It fell in my back yard," he told the Hadassah group in the town's auditorium. "I saw it flying towards me while I was having coffee. So far, we've had 2,000 to 3,000 — we've stopped counting:' Later he directed us to the back of the nearby police station where a large pile of spent Kassams take up one exterior wall. The 2-foot rockets have three back fins for guidance and tips packed with metal pellets and debris. Upon impact, the tips peel back like the skins of bananas. Six people from Sderot have been killed, Mayor Moyal says, including three children under age 5. "Our most crucial problem is our kids," he says. "More than 80 percent have an invisible disease — post-traumatic stress. They don't sleep; they don't want to go outside after sunset; they are losing concentration at school; some turn to pills and drugs. We have to help straighten out our kids because they are our future. If you raise ill kids, you will have ill citizens?' Mayor Moyal says the enemies pose no threat to Israel's existence because "they cannot win us',' but the question is about how to be "a healthy, functional society and protect our kids' souls?' For the mayor, a clear path exists in this war and he's not shy about speaking out. "We've had six years of bru- tal attacks, and no one has left Sderot. The answer to our enemy is we stay in our places. I am brave enough to say it: We should not run away from our cities. We must keep normality in the war. Our part as civilians is to show how strong we are. "We will definitely win this war; we have no choice,' says Mayor Moyal, tall, lanky and passionate. The mayor's staunch stand received a standing ovation from the Hadassah group. The finale to Hadassah's mean- ingful mission came with a talk by Benjamin Netanyahu, member of Knesset and former prime minister, at the Tel Aviv Hilton. In his short speech, Netanyahu several times drew the metaphor between the Shiite regime in Iran bent on the annihilation of Jews and Hitler's sway over the Nazis and his genocide of 6 million Jews during World War II. "Israel is under attack by a for- ward unit of Iran; it's important to understand the big picture:' he said. "Their goal for Israel to be wiped off the map is the new Holocaust for Israel's 6 million Jews. Iran's sidekick Hezbollah says the same ... America is starting to get it, Europeans don't get it. [Iran's] mad ideology starts with Jew hatred, but it doesn't end there. "We are in great peril; this is the first salvo;' Netanyahu said. "It is important to effectively achieve a severing of this tentacle of the terrorist octopus ... Israel should cut off this tentacle now. World war was initiated by mad ideolo- gies. That's exactly what this is?' From the sirens and bomb shelters in Haifa to the tent city in Sderot, members of this Hadassah delegation understood how different this trip to Israel has been, In addition to giving many thousands of Hadassah dollars to several projects, including Rambam Hospital and the city of Sderot, members of the delega- tion pledged to go back to their respective cities — from Boise to Nashville — and speak out about what they saw and heard, a story of pain and suffering but also of vibrancy and determination. ❑