BEST OF EVERY -TH1NG

Nostalgic 67th

Lelli's in Auburn Hills continues the family tradition.

H

e came to Detroit from
New York in 1933 with
$600 in his pocket ...
The bus dropped him off on
Woodward and Grand Boulevard
... the location that one day
would become the original site
of a restaurant tradition now cel-
ebrating its 67th anniversary.
That first locale on Woodward
Avenue, two blocks north of
Grand Boulevard, was opened
in 1939 by Nerio Lelli, who did
the cooking, with cousin Mario
as waiter, and Nerio's wife, Irene,
their cashier.
Nerio was round as a ping
pong ball and full of good
humor and optimism.
Lelli's today on Opdyke Road,
across from the Silverdome in
Auburn Hills, continues its run
as one of Metro Detroit's oldest
restaurants.
The Detroit site originally
seated about 140 people in three
rooms, and then 650 in seven or
eight rooms ... Lelli's in Auburn
Hills, which opened in 1996, is
currently owned by Nerio and
Irene's son, Mike, retired but
still coming in to oversee, and
operated by Mike's daughter and
son, Rebecca and Steve Lelli ...
It seats 350 in three rooms in a
decor that brings out an elegant
beauty', with attractive colors of
deep burgundy and dark mahog-
any, comfortable padded booths,

large picture windows, etc.
The Woodward restaurant's .
decor was horribly wonder-
ful or wonderfully horrible ...
Anyway, they don't
make 'em that way
anymore ... Back
in the 1950s, it had
green stipled walls,
low ceiling and a
maze of arches, little
alcoves and tiny
rooms ... but a lot
of wonderful charm
and atmosphere.
In the 1920s, the
Woodward site had
been an old house used as a
blind pig, where many Detroit
notables found their way and
later spoke about with much
reverence ... The original Lelli's
burned down Feb. 14, 2000.
The food, however, is the
thing that has really made Lelli's
great ... Its menu is still loaded
with house specialties, many
owned by Lelli's.
It is estimated that in the 67
years, about 10 million people
have eaten the food at the Lelli's
locations ... consuming over
4,500,000 pounds of filets
... 600,000 pounds of pasta,
500,000 pounds of chicken ...
more than 400,000 pounds of
fish, a huge amount of veal, etc.
Almost all the dishes at Lelli's
are from recipes handed down

some of the best trades are those
Sothe were changed
by Nerio
that are not made ... Brothers
by Mike, who still retained his
father's original ways with subtle Chris and John Vardouniotis dis-
covered years ago that the same
differences.
holds true for many restaurant
Hours at Lelli's
deals that never materialize.
in Auburn Hills are
In 1976, they almost pur-
Monday-Thursday, 11
chased Kingsley Inn with inves-
a.m.-1O; Friday, 11-11.;
tors, but the deal fell through ...
Saturday, noon-11;
So, instead, they bought a couple
Sunday, noon-9.
of Mama Mia Italian restaurants
NeriO and Irene
in January 1977, and are cel-
always believed in a
ebrating their 19th successful
staggering quality and
anniversary.
variety of food ... but
Chris came to America in
even more so in fresh-
1955, three years after John, and
ness (all dishes are
they worked together at Ye Olde
made spanking fresh
Wayne Club, Detroit, before they
daily at Lelli's) ... and prompt,
became owners of McGinnis' on
courteous service.
Evergreen and Joy, Detroit, and
It is still a fine Northern
Stevenson Club, etc.
Italian restaurant ... with
Chris and son Michael oper-
the wonderful Lelli's filet and
ate the Mama Mia on the corner
original zip sauce, concocted
of Beech-Daly and Grand River,
by Nerio, the biggest seller
Redford, and John and his son,
Nerio's Palmina sauce has
also named Michael, run the
national note that former
Mama Mia on Plymouth Road,
Detroiters now living elsewhere
Livonia ... carrying on the
still speak of whenever Lelli's is
Mama Mia tradition of quality
mentioned.
A sign at the entrance of Lelli's food at low prices.
ONE NIGHTER for Christine
original restaurant on Woodward
. and Jon, she doing the warbling
used tosay,"A- Dinner Without
and he tickling the ivories, will
Wine Is Like A Day Without
be at Giulio's Cucina Italiana,
Sunshine" ... Lunch or din-
Plymouth Road, Livonia,
ner at Lelli's today continues to
Wednesday, June 7, 6:30-9:30.
make every day a bright one as
CONGRATS ... To Anita
it celebrates another wonderful
Rubin on her 75th birthday ...
anniversary.
To Gert and Dave Matz on their
A BASEBALL saying is that

SPOSITA'S 1-1 itlY°OFF

RISTORANTE

ITOTAL FOOD BILL

Fine Italian Dining in a
Casual Atmosphere

(MON-THURS. ONLY)
PLEASE PRESENT THIS COUPON TO
RECEIVE DISCOUNT!

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK!

OUR NEW HOURS

Monday-Thursday
4pm-10pm

L

ONE COUPON PER CUSTOMER • EXPIRES 06/30/06
(NOT VALID ON HOLIDAYS)

NEW LOWER PRICED
LUNCH MENU FRIDAYS ONLY

Friday_
1 lam-11pm

Saturday
4pm-11 pm

Sunday
3pm 9pm

-

33210 W. 1L Mile Road
In Simsbury Plaza -
Just East of Farmington Road
West Bloomfield

(2481 538-8954

-

55th anniversary.
REUNION DEPT. ... Berkley
High Class of 1971's shindig is
Saturday, Aug. 5, at Holiday Inn,
Farmington Hills ... For more
info, contact Kevin Lewis, (248)
541-9060.
READERS ASK why Angelo's
Bistro in West Bloomfield was
closed ... Rumors galore are
swirling, and I join many others
in hating false restaurant rumors
... No one knows the full truth
yet, and until it comes out, disas-
trous rumors that are allowed to
fester could bear a terrible toll.
MAIL DEPT.... "We enjoy
your Detroit Jewish News column
and use it as a basis for din-
ing out choices. One thing I've
noticed is that you don't men-
tion noise volumes when you
review upscale restaurants. I find
that while I enjoy the food in a
number of restaurants, the noise
level is so loud that the evening
becomes a very unpleasant expe-
rience.
"My dining companions often
feel the same way because the
high noise level impedes or, in
some cases, entirely precludes
normal conversation. We do
not return to these restaurants
and advise friends not to go
there either." ... Michael Kasky,
Grosse Pointe. ❑

Danny's e-mail address is

dannyraskin®sbcglobal.net.

DETROIT'S LEGENDARY STEAK HOUSE

Brunck

A classic since 1920

10:00 am-2:30 pm
Adults $21.95
Children 5-12 yrs $15.95
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Purchase two entrées
totaling $50 or more
receive $10 off with ad.

Voted Best Steak House by:

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c7A—S,
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313 833-0700

june 1. 2006

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